using just over a 1 inch comp height piston , a 5.4 in rod and a 3.5 stroke, I am always fighting piston gauld, I've had great luck coating my pistons with ceramalube, I am always looking for something extra though, I will try this motorkote, thanks for the tip hpmaster.
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most people that are on here aren't racing for the national series points,and if I'm racing for 10,000 or less I'm saving my engine,also there is a steering wheel in the car so you can turn into the infield or close to the wall and out of the groove at most tracks,your either an engine builder who likes to get business from some peoples misfortune or your just showing your intelligence,just my opinion,from my personal experience it has saved thousands of dollars for me and thats all i can speak for is my experienceOriginally posted by stock car driverWhat if your at a big special and it loses oil psi on the last lap?
Id be pissed at that kill switch. or if it killed it on a restart and I got plowed into from behind totaling a car. I cant think of man good situations for any switch that will shut my car off.
if you guys want to trash a 40,000 dollar engine or even a 20,000 dollar engine for 10,000 dollars be my guest but I'm not,i know racing is a losing battle but I'm not just going to throw my money away over a 10-20 dollar switch
thanks hp,I'm going to check into that product
i may have went overboard a little but who wants to win 10,000 just to spend 10,000 or more with all the work that goes with it,over a switch,like i said best 20 i ever spentLast edited by grt74; 09-17-2014, 07:35 PM.
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lets agree to disagree,I'm just saying it just not worth it to me,and I've got 3 supers and 1 crate ready to go and still would not want to melt it down but i don't run for points either,i also foot the billOriginally posted by stock car driverIntelligence? 21 years of racing and blown up a few motors, but won a few races cooking them down. 10k to win is irrelevant to me, but I would cook a motor for a 5 foot trophy to give to some fan in the stands at a big show with 50-100 cars any time.
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I can see both sides of this argument on the switch deal and I'll say this:
I've won races but never in a Late Model. If my oil pressure light comes on at the white flag and I'm leading, I can promise you I'm NOT shutting it down :-)
Didn't Jimmy Owens run the last several laps of one of his Eldora wins with the oil pressure light on while leading?
My point is that sometimes getting in victory lane is worth it regardless of the actual cost.
But again, I can see both sides of the debate.
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I can't argue with that. Truth is if we were pragmatic, dollar wise and rational thinkers we wouldn't be within a mile of a race car anyway's.Originally posted by stock car driverWhat if your at a big special and it loses oil psi on the last lap?
Id be pissed at that kill switch. or if it killed it on a restart and I got plowed into from behind totaling a car. I cant think of man good situations for any switch that will shut my car off.
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Guess I am lucky but I have not lost an engine since using it and pulling them at the 1500 + lap area. As for rod bolts those are replaced every time my engines were done, my bad for not saying that. I fully understand there is your way, my way and the right way.Originally posted by hucktyson View PostHP I understand how motorkote cuts down wear but I can't see how it makes rod bolts or the pin bosses on pistons hold up better and longer ??
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I remember Kevin Weaver ran second at Eldora with no oil pressure one time.Originally posted by Matt49 View PostI can see both sides of this argument on the switch deal and I'll say this:
I've won races but never in a Late Model. If my oil pressure light comes on at the white flag and I'm leading, I can promise you I'm NOT shutting it down :-)
Didn't Jimmy Owens run the last several laps of one of his Eldora wins with the oil pressure light on while leading?
My point is that sometimes getting in victory lane is worth it regardless of the actual cost.
But again, I can see both sides of the debate.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Thanks for the info hpmaster.
Here's a interesting bit on LUCAS.....
I've always used Lucas and was impressed how it was so sticky. After letting an engine sit there on the shop floor for over a year, the valve train was still coated in a nice film of oil(Lucas). But after seeing this test by Bob the Oil guy, and the other test by Motorkote showing what happens with LUCAS, I'm kind of up in the air about it now. We've ran Royal Purple with LUCAS additive in our spec motors for years and always had excellent bearing wear but struggled with piston ring wear after 22 races. I imagine the excessive ring wear could be attributed to the alcohol as well.
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MotorKote said it treats the metal not the oil, for whatever thats worth.Originally posted by FlatTire View PostThanks for the info hpmaster.
Here's a interesting bit on LUCAS.....
I've always used Lucas and was impressed how it was so sticky. After letting an engine sit there on the shop floor for over a year, the valve train was still coated in a nice film of oil(Lucas). But after seeing this test by Bob the Oil guy, and the other test by Motorkote showing what happens with LUCAS, I'm kind of up in the air about it now. We've ran Royal Purple with LUCAS additive in our spec motors for years and always had excellent bearing wear but struggled with piston ring wear after 22 races. I imagine the excessive ring wear could be attributed to the alcohol as well.
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hpmaster, on the Motorkote site I think I read on their site that you don't make allowance for the product...in other words you would still put the same amount of oil in the crankcase. I could almost understand this on an engine that takes 4qts (8oz) but on a drysump system or in my case my diesel truck that takes 16qts, that is an extra quart. Do you know why this is or do you make allowances?
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A trucker put me onto the Motorkote several years ago. He was a trucker by trade but had a ARCA car that he played with. We were racing at a mile track where everything is abused and he noticed me draining and dumping my rearend fluid then replacing with new and cool. He said to stop and we dumped this stuff in with the old oil after the sales pitch. 6 lap heats made over 50 degrees more heat than a GWC 20 lapper...it's in everything I own now
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All oil additives are detrimental to engine life. This is not an opinion. If there are things you think you're lacking in your oil, then get a better oil. Don't dump in a $5 bottle of crud and think that you're outsmarting professional Tribologists and billions of dollars of research.Now, Top Fuel engines are an entirely different story, but that is about the only exception I can think of.
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as far as pistons go most big engine builders don't waste there time to inspect pistons .you racers have so much money you can afford it (sarcasm!!)if you don't over heat ,detonate,dirt or any other dumb thing pistons can and will run a long time , but have to be inspected . remember even new parts brake
Originally posted by hucktyson View PostHP .... Which builder is recommending 1700 laps ?? The builders I know replace pistons after 1000- 1100 laps ...I'm not saying your wrong but I have never seen anyone recommend that long of an interval
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