Give it a few years and they probably will.
Bearing Spacers
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these things are only running on the inner race, to me all they are is an easy way to take hub on and off a lot and maintain a consistent pre load , if you know how to properly set them to start with, but im going to play with one I have on an old spindle just to satisfy my curiosity.
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I don't know about Timken , I just do it the way coleman told me to 20 years ago and never had a problemOriginally posted by Lizardracing View PostAccording to Timken bearing manufacture here are the valued torque(Nmm) for tapered roller bearings of the appropriate size
The bearing friction torque Mr = F . fm . (Dm/2)
(friction values below marked with ***)
Mr = Friction torque (Nmm)
F = Radial (or axial load) (N)
f = coefficient of friction of rolling bearing .
fm = coefficient of friction of rolling bearing based on mean diameter
d = Diameter of the bore of the bearing (Shaft diameter)(mm)
D = Outside diameter of the bearing (mm)
Dm = (d+D)/2 (mm)
These values relate to running bearings without seals and with optimum lubrication..
The start-up friction values will be higher -up to twice the values quoted below..
Single row ball bearing (radial Load) ..f = 0,0015
Angular contact ball bearing (single row) ..f = 0,0020
Angular contact ball bearing (double row) ..f = 0,0024
Self aligning ball bearing (radial load) ..f = 0,0010
Cylindrical roller bearings with cage ..f = 0,0011
Cylindrical roller bearings full complement ..f = 0,0020
Thrust ball bearing (axial load) ..f = 0,0013
Spherical roller bearing (radial Load) ..f = 0,0018
___Taper roller bearings ..f = 0,0018____
Needle roller bearings-with cage ..fm = 0,003
Needle roller ball bearings-full Complement ..fm = 0,005
Combined needle roller bearings ..fm = 0,004
Axial Needle roller ball bearings ..fm = 0,0035
Axial Cylindrical roller bearings ..fm = 0,0035
.0018 Nmm to torque= 0.0013276118686986 ft pounds.
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You mean like this?Originally posted by Lizardracing View PostYour brake pads rubbing the rotors create more friction then tapered bearings spacers eliminate. How come some one isn't making them for the rear hubs yet? Think of all the HP your could save by doing the rear and the front!
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I was trying to be facetious.Originally posted by stockcar5 View PostYou mean like this?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/DRP-Pe...cer,94120.html
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Rolling resistance is extremely flat if you graph it vs speed. Wind resistance is exponential. This has been shown in many engineering vehicle design books. Now assuming it is basically flat how hard ia your car to push, the component from rolling resistance is that hard at 5, 25, and 100 mph. All of that said my car seems to pull itself from a dead stop without issues, so therefore I don't see the need for these until I get enough grip to big down the motor all the time and buy everything else I can think of. That said a bigger gain could be had working to make a body as smooth as possible and reduce drag, which at the speeds of 95% of our race tracks is still much less than the power an open car produces.
All of that said if they gave me better bearing life, which I don't have issues with, or I needed a car easier to push by myself it is something...
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good luck with that knee , my buddy had a full replacement a few years back, went thru he!! for 6 months , but after he finaly recovered, its the best thing he ever did. oh by the way , be careful posting on them meds, sometimes things are typed a little different than you meant... lolOriginally posted by stock car drivershort posts, as Im on my phone, had knee replaced tue so lots of free time!
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FWIW angular contact and tapered roller are not the same. But maybe you were being facetious again?Originally posted by Lizardracing View PostAngular contact (aka tapered roller) bearings were designed specifically for side loading and vertical load handing like holding up the car and steering at the same time.
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