pinion locator with brake bar?

[pfd60]

I have a 2010 Rayburn combo car. I have only drove it once. It has a short panhard bar, a square tube going out above the drive shaft with a brake bar on it " pinion locator" and one shock above it going forward and up by the cross in the chassis. My question to you guys is is this a set up I can do good with? What would be the best way to set up the bars for this deal? Swing arm, 4 bar , watts, or a combo? Also for me to run a lift bar and j bar I would have to cut the pinion locator out.
thanks in advance

[pfd60]

these are a few pics of what I have. thanks

[popkorn42]

Could the pictures be any smaller????
Can`t get the bi-focals ...wrapped around them.....

[popkorn42]

Or could it be a new version of the "reese bar"

[dirtrace09]

That is a pullbar with a brake side spring. You run that with rayburns swingarm setup. Call Rayburn or go to his website for setup info. also, I am sure there are many racers at your track that have ran a rayburn swingarm at some point in their career that can give you a little guidance.

[pfd60]

Ok thanks I will call Rayburn. Sorry about the small pictures. Lol

[TLM4t4]

I've ran several different ways, it depends on what type track your running at. We run ½ mile down to small ⅜, sandy, rocky, but yet smooth. The reason asking track type is because these cars have no RR scotch with all forward, have to do a lot of pedal driving.

[pfd60]

I will be running Peoria and Farmercity which are 1/4 miles. Peoria is rough and more stop and go than Farmercity which has wider corners but smooth for the most part. I ran it at Lincoln for the first time and its a 1/4 smooth track. I had foward out the butt, but it was hard getting it through the corner. That's why I was wondering if I should run it watts right and 4 bar left to help it turn? Or something different? I ran it swing arm left and watts right when I did run it. I don't want to cut this deal out and run it on a lift bar unless I can't get this to work. But, I don't want to be chasing my tail all season trying to get it in the ballpark

[TLM4t4]

I've always ran 4 link cars until I started driving for a guy who had one. The 4 link cars don't have as much forward traction but they have RR scotch which makes the difference up. You have to keep the rear tires pulling continuously on a Rayburn to keep it under you. My guess is you can't get through the corner for the rear wanting to step out?

[pfd60]

Kinda new to DLM s. RRscotch? Could you explain? I had trouble midway going in the corner to the center. I did have 1" or rear steer with the swingarms which I'm sure helped turn the car.

[Racerguy27]

Pfd60
This pull bar setup you have can be used on 4bar or swing. I have run it on both. Rayburn designed this to help keep angle in the pull bar. Also I can't tell if you have the two shocks on the back of the rear end mount to the frame pic is to small lol. These shocks take place of the 90/10 shocks most run on in front with standard pull bar setup. This will help slow and control the decal. Without them the bar that the pullbar mounts to will hit the frame to hard to fast and you will loose traction. I will pm you with some more info and new stuff Rayburn has been having guys test with with good results.

[pfd60]

That would be great thanks. I have one set of holes on top of the upper plates for one shock going forward now. I do have multiple mounts on the chassis for the shocks going backwards so I could possibly do something different.

[LM14]

Change the spring in the pull bar every 3 or 4 nights. If you start to loose forward bite change that spring. We found the green ones worked best and lasted longest.

SPark

[pfd60]

Thanks for the info. Any help is always appreciated

[popkorn42]

Does anyone have, or know where, I could find parts for a "C- LINE" pull bar??
They were popular back in the 80`s
text me 815-291-6016