Helping a buddy pack his bearings and reinstall his old hubs. Mine have always had bearing spacers. His don't. So I have never set up the old style that don't have spacers and can't find the info on wildwoods site.
Willwood wide five bearing preload
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So just like a classic car, this car seemed to have a small amount of preload. When backing off center nut it was tight for at least a 1/16 of a turn. I rolled it back to original position to "feel" how tight it was. But this car is new to him and want to be sure they are set correctly. I assumed they would be tightened until they reach zero and backed off. then tighten again to zero, spin hub forward and back and loosen a hair.Originally posted by Kwoods25 View PostUsually you set the bearings then back off just a hair. It's tricky if you don't know what your doing. And it's kinda hard to explain
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talk to Lenny at DRP. They have the best products and knowledge. It is well worth the money to invest in spacers
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this is also how ive been doing it for years and knock on wood, never had a problem.Originally posted by FlatTire View PostI've packed many bearings in my lifetime as I used to work on cars at a dealership and the method I've always used is to spin the hub as you are tightening the nut with your fingers. Once its snugged up, back it off 1/8 turn.
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Ditto on how to do this. I for one after 45 years of doing hub bearings on countless cars as a mechanic pretty much this way cannot even think of wasting money on spacers. I have seen data on rolling resistance VS spacers and no spacers the gain is nothing. I take the wide 5 socket and with my hand only spin the hub and tighten as I spin the hub as tight as i can with just my hand, no wrench on the socket. then back off and repeat several times. Try to get a feel for what you are doing. This ain't friggin super science for God's sake. JMHOOriginally posted by FlatTire View PostI've packed many bearings in my lifetime as I used to work on cars at a dealership and the method I've always used is to spin the hub as you are tightening the nut with your fingers. Once its snugged up, back it off 1/8 turn.
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I'm still trying to figure out why you would run a spacer on two tapered bearings to start with. I thought the whole concept of opposite facing tappered bearings was when you snugged the hub nut up it kept the correct bearing placement on the race and corrects the side to side movement. If someone could, please explain this to me. I could understand if its roller bearings.
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And now we'll wait for the endless stream of bullsh!t from the people selling spacers.Originally posted by TLM4t4 View PostI'm still trying to figure out why you would run a spacer on two tapered bearings to start with. I thought the whole concept of opposite facing tappered bearings was when you snugged the hub nut up it kept the correct bearing placement on the race and corrects the side to side movement. If someone could, please explain this to me. I could understand if its roller bearings.
Until you show me back-to-back lap times differences with "my way" versus setting up with a spacer, I'll pass on hundreds of dollars for extra unsprung weight.
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no one has ever been able to convince me either. I thought one time that maybe the distortion on the bearings under load might have something to do with it , but a tapered bearing keeps its self in line. only uses I see is if someone just cant get the feel for hand setting the bearings they might help. on the other hand here is one possibility I've thought of, on the pinion bearings on a nine inch ford rear end , you suppose to use the crush sleeve or the bearing spacers and shims like I use, to obtain 12 inch pounds of pre load on the bearings with light oil on bearings, then you take it apart , put seal in ,put it back together and lock it down . those hub bearings are basically the same thing. but even though you might be more accurate on preload, I don't think it matters and I cant see any performance gain. JMOOriginally posted by TLM4t4 View PostI'm still trying to figure out why you would run a spacer on two tapered bearings to start with. I thought the whole concept of opposite facing tappered bearings was when you snugged the hub nut up it kept the correct bearing placement on the race and corrects the side to side movement. If someone could, please explain this to me. I could understand if its roller bearings.
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