Blow proof bell housing?

[racerj5]

Was wondering if any of you guys use one with your Bert/ Brinn trans. My uncle had a NASCAR team in the 90's and there are 5 or 6 just laying around the shop. Opinions?

[joeltjen]

Was wondering if any of you guys use one with your Bert/ Brinn trans. My uncle had a NASCAR team in the 90's and there are 5 or 6 just laying around the shop. Opinions?

they will work if you run the 153 tooth flex plate and the block mount starter but you can save a lot of weight if you go with the aluminum or magnesium one and the small flywheel and reverse mount starter . just depends on your budget I guess

[racerj5]

Yeah, we got the 153 tooth on the Warrior and the crate motor, with a stock aluminum bell housing. Was gonna use the blow proof one on the Rocket. I don't have a whole lot of lead, so I thought it might save us on lead...and gold .plus, it's free, so.....I'd rather put that money for a high dollar bell housing in tires if it doesn't make that much of a difference.

[Punisher88]

I would think the rotating weight would make a huge difference. Especially being on a crate motor with the small flywheel Vs the flex plate.

[Matt49]

The flex plates are actually lighter but they are also bigger so who knows where that puts them on moment of inertia...but it could be figured out.
In my opinion the major advantage of running the flywheel is getting the starter reverse mounted (moving weight toward the back of the car) and having the ability to run the power steering off of it (moving even more weight toward the back of the car).
One of the biggest challenges with the crate deal (or any steel block setup) is getting enough weight to the back of the car so that your percentages end up where you want them without having to be too heavy overall.

And don't build your car heavy just because you're short on lead ballast!!!!! There's a reason all these light weight components are built even for a class with a minimum weight rules: A car built as light as possible (and safe) with lead added where it is needed (hopefully right in the center) will always be superior to a car with heavy components all around it even if it is the same weight with the same percentages.

[bobdoo]

Alum. bell housing

When using the aluminum bell housing is the clutch letting go not a concern?

[powerslide]

If you have a bert, brinn, falcon ET AL. The clutch is in the case and doesnt blow up like the old school clutches.

[Matt49]

The clutch in a Bert/Brinn style transmission isn't in the bellhousing...it is in the transmission. And it is only used in low gear so would never be under enough strain to "blow up".
If you're using an external clutch with a Muncie or something like that, I would consider scrapping that and starting over.

[racerj5]

The flex plates are actually lighter but they are also bigger so who knows where that puts them on moment of inertia...but it could be figured out. In my opinion the major advantage of running the flywheel is getting the starter reverse mounted (moving weight toward the back of the car) and having the ability to run the power steering off of it (moving even more weight toward the back of the car).One of the biggest challenges with the crate deal (or any steel block setup) is getting enough weight to the back of the car so that your percentages end up where you want them without having to be too heavy overall. And don't build your car heavy just because you're short on lead ballast!!!!! There's a reason all these light weight components are built even for a class with a minimum weight rules: A car built as light as possible (and safe) with lead added where it is needed (hopefully right in the center) will always be superior to a car with heavy components all around it even if it is the same weight with the same percentages.

Our class doesn't allow dry sump, and the p/s pump has to be driven off the front, but thanks for the insight. I hadn't thought of that. i welcome your input on any of this. I always run a full load of fuel, to get that extra rear weight. And I was thinking that heavier bell housing might be a little more weight in the center of the car. I weigh 240 myself and we already have a little trouble getting the left side % down. I wasn't sure how the steel housing would affect that, or if it would give me a better LCG. I'm still learning all this. As I've said before, I came from Go karts and we didn't have anywhere near the adjustments. I knew the blow proof deal was for the exterior clutch pack. I was just trying to save some money, if it wasn't going to be an issue with weight %.

[Matt49]

Our class doesn't allow dry sump, and the p/s pump has to be driven off the front, but thanks for the insight. I hadn't thought of that. i welcome your input on any of this. I always run a full load of fuel, to get that extra rear weight. And I was thinking that heavier bell housing might be a little more weight in the center of the car. I weigh 240 myself and we already have a little trouble getting the left side % down. I wasn't sure how the steel housing would affect that, or if it would give me a better LCG. I'm still learning all this. As I've said before, I came from Go karts and we didn't have anywhere near the adjustments. I knew the blow proof deal was for the exterior clutch pack. I was just trying to save some money, if it wasn't going to be an issue with weight %.

The bell is low compared to where you want your vertical CG to be. I also raced go-karts and (as you know) we didn't consider lateral load transfer as much because we didn't have suspension to control it. Static was important. The late model game is different. Dynamic weight transfer is THE most important thing to understand. And your VCG plays a huge role in that.

[racerj5]

The bell is low compared to where you want your vertical CG to be. I also raced go-karts and (as you know) we didn't consider lateral load transfer as much because we didn't have suspension to control it. Static was important. The late model game is different. Dynamic weight transfer is THE most important thing to understand. And your VCG plays a huge role in that.

I would be interested in hearing you elaborate on that. I'm just not used to the body roll and the rear steer in the car yet. I know this will come with seat time, but I'd still like to know what to expect from weight transfer, etc. The feel is so much different. In a kart, if you were loose or tight, or had a bad push, it was REALLY easy to tell. I can't tell yet if I'm gonna spin out or if it's just the rear end moving around. Late model game is definitely different.