That's the rod pressure in the shock doing that. Take the shock off and run the adjuster nut down until you have the same left rear bite numbers.
need help with traction on 2013 gen x
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The theory behind removing the traction shock is that even with no rebound valving the shock still has seal drag and friction from the piston moving through the oil that generates drag and slows the rotation of the birdcage. Delaying the car reaching maximum hike reduces available instant traction. If you remove the traction shock and don't add wedge to the car to get back
To the same scale numbers I can't see it having a benefit. If your car doesn't hike down on entry it means nothing anyway ...
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Limits dynamic upper bar angle on hike up so its has the effect of a bar angle hole change BUT being you can keep your settings when you go into compression like on corner entry you keep all your rear steer is the abbreviated explanation
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RSS what kind of car do you have? Most cars come off the spring unless you are running under a 150. How much drop are you running in the LR?
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limits rr hike.. when you have xxx angle in your rr bars your rr does hike up some, when it does that you are losing some drive. I don't think it hikes up much under normal settings. mine at least never seems to hit the rr chain with even a inch of slack in it, I have to pretty much go snug at ride height to feel it working.
Ive found chaining my rr to be effective on smooth tracks only, dreadful bad on heavy or if you bang up on the cushion.
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I don't have to crank down on the lr to set the ride height. I only use the 1" in the lr. Most chassis builders don't give a ride height for lr, but I like to keep it within reason. I have used the 2" on other corners for other reasons.Originally posted by hucktyson View PostHow do the " spring spacers " stop you from busting your knuckles ?Lions don't worry about the opinions of sheep.
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