QC rear end ?

[mod88s]

Anyone use 293 supreme gear lube 75w-90 schaeffers in their quick change?? When looking at schaeffers products, looks like they have a better option but since i already have 4 quarts of this stuff just wondering if this is ok to run or not? when i read the description, it mentions being used in limited slip so not sure if this will work or not.. any opinions?

[collateralDamage]

I haven't used the Schaeffer's 293 that i know of, but Schaeffer's does blend Winter's gear oil for their quick changes which is all I ever use. It has moly in it and is green in color. Look up Alan Bradley, he is a Schaeffers rep and could definitely tell you if it's acceptable in a quick change. I would be curious myself to know....

[mod88s]

What is the gear oil that you use called?

[Matt49]

I'm always interested in learning who actually makes/blends the oils that so many places sell. I know all of these places don't have their own refineries and "blending" oils is not as simple as pouring two different ones into the same bottle.
What I always find funny is that a company will always tell you what their competitors' oils actually are or where they come from but they are usually hush hush on their own :-)

[grt74]

i always get a kick out of this,we use 85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket(who ever is cheaper)WE HAVE NEVER HAD A FAILURE DUE TO GEAR OIL,the failures we have had are spools stripping,axles,and jack shafts,in my opinion save the money,but if your running a differential thats a different story(clutches are involved)

[grt74]

When I switched to crate engine modified from stock car. I burned up two gears right away.

mobil 1 full synthetic didn't keep the gears cool enough for a car that was on throttle for 15-18 laps without lifting on huge half mile Oskaloosa Iowa.

I switched to red line shock proof and never had any more failures.

If I ran the cheap stuff, cheaper than mobil synthetic, I would have never finished a race in the modified!

i can only speak from my experience,we've had crates,450 10 degree,and several 430's,415,and never had a bearing go bad and everyone that i have heard of 1 going bad had 1 of two things wrong,either running the rear end low or not putting gear oil back in and they forget to fill it back up after a few gear changes(running it low)
and the oldest rear end we have is 15 years old,still has the same ring gear and pinion,and bearings
thats my experience,ring gear setup is a factor with heat build up

[grt74]

one thing that gets missed alot are the seals at the spool,if gear oil is getting in the tubes it needs to be fixed

[collateralDamage]

what exactly would one credit stripped spools, failed axles and jackshafts failures to? i'm not a metalurgist but i'm pretty sure the less heat you generate the less wear. Stress is definitely a factor but last i knew, you didn't set the tolerances of a rear expecting 280 deg F and some temps i have seen can certainly effect how metal deals with stress.

I couldn't tell you what the best oil is, but i'm pretty sure it's probably not the cheapest bulk quantity at autozone.....

[grt74]

I burned up ring and pinion 2 in the first 8 or so nights I ran a modified. they got hot and they were full of fluid the fluid wasn't good enough, nothing exploded they stripped all the fluid was still in there, cooked.

that sounds like a setup problem,we have bought brand new rear ends and the set up has been to tight(we found out the hard way),now even if there new we check them,we've had 2 out of maybe 25 that were tight,
the problem your talking about we've had but it was ring gear setup,just trying to help and save money where you can
we do use a name brand but not all the top dollar stuff,valvoline in a 5 gal bucket

[grt74]

what exactly would one credit stripped spools, failed axles and jackshafts failures to? i'm not a metalurgist but i'm pretty sure the less heat you generate the less wear. Stress is definitely a factor but last i knew, you didn't set the tolerances of a rear expecting 280 deg F and some temps i have seen can certainly effect how metal deals with stress.

I couldn't tell you what the best oil is, but i'm pretty sure it's probably not the cheapest bulk quantity at autozone.....

very few and far between,800-900 hp on a rear end and bouncing from traction will get it every time,remember guys i said in the 1st post "in my opinion"

[collateralDamage]

i simply don't agree with saying any old "85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket(who ever is cheaper)" is necessarily right for the guy asking the question.

if you can make it work for you, that's awesome. personally, i really don't have an opinion other than, i have seen enough testing and raced enough to know that it DOES matter what oil you put back there.

[grt74]

i simply don't agree with saying any old "85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket(who ever is cheaper)" is necessarily right for the guy asking the question.

if you can make it work for you, that's awesome. personally, i really don't have an opinion other than, i have seen enough testing and raced enough to know that it DOES matter what oil you put back there.

10-4,like i said just trying to save someone some money,we can agree to disagree but we have done it for years now

[RCJ]

Stock car was that a Q/C or a 9" ford?Grt74 also said he is using 85-140.While I have no problems using 90 wieght in my Q/C ,On the 9" switching to 140 from tractor supply gave better life that the best 90 that I could buy.

[lindsey97]

Quote Originally Posted by grt74 View Post

"i always get a kick out of this,we use 85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket(who ever is cheaper)WE HAVE NEVER HAD A FAILURE DUE TO GEAR OIL,the failures we have had are spools stripping,axles,and jack shafts,in my opinion save the money,but if your running a differential thats a different story(clutches are involved)
When I switched to crate engine modified from stock car. I burned up two gears right away."

All these failures are directly related to oil. I come from an industrial environment long before I started racing. Having gearboxes the size of a sprint car with 2000 hp. electric motors attached to them puts oils to a test. I've had to do the research for that, there's a lot more to oil than the price tag. Nobody ever likes my suggestions so I want make any here, but from what I have read there's a lot of money for people to save by doing some research on oils. And I mean look into what makes oil, oil, get to the molecular make up of it. Learn how oil works for you in your rear-ends. There is so much bad information that gets passed by word of mouth on oil.

[grt74]

Quote Originally Posted by grt74 View Post

"i always get a kick out of this,we use 85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket(who ever is cheaper)WE HAVE NEVER HAD A FAILURE DUE TO GEAR OIL,the failures we have had are spools stripping,axles,and jack shafts,in my opinion save the money,but if your running a differential thats a different story(clutches are involved)
When I switched to crate engine modified from stock car. I burned up two gears right away."

All these failures are directly related to oil. I come from an industrial environment long before I started racing. Having gearboxes the size of a sprint car with 2000 hp. electric motors attached to them puts oils to a test. I've had to do the research for that, there's a lot more to oil than the price tag. Nobody ever likes my suggestions so I want make any here, but from what I have read there's a lot of money for people to save by doing some research on oils. And I mean look into what makes oil, oil, get to the molecular make up of it. Learn how oil works for you in your rear-ends. There is so much bad information that gets passed by word of mouth on oil.

the loads you are seeing in the industrial world are 1000's of pounds more,if not 10's of thousands,just an opinion,good luck to all,and by all means buy what you feel comfortable with,but i can count our failures on 1 hand