LF Droop limiter?

[Kromulous]

We have been fighting a ill handling race car for the 1st couple races of the year and i wanted to ask if you have the LF droop travel limited to much will it make the car loose in and thru the middle?

We are fighting a loose entry / middle and not enough drive off, not matter what i change. He says the car wont firm up and go, its like he has to wait on it. Once it does get on the straight it goes but it he looses to much speed in the corner.

Also the car is shredding the rear tires, more so than usual.

Pretty much standard 4 bar set up, 225RR, 200 / 165 LR, 100lbs bite. 500 LF, 350 RF high rebound. 5th coil is 36" out with a 350lb spring and no preload.

Thanks for any help, Krom.

[Matt49]

Limiting travel shouldn't cause what you are describing unless it is so severe that the driver is having to sling the car in to get it to turn because of no rear steer. Drivers have been known to do that and not say so and then complain about the car sliding too much.
What about your scale numbers? It almost sounds like you are high on left side weight or low on rear or a combination of the two. Spring rates, bar changes, and all the shock adjustments in the world won't help much if you've got 57% left side.

[brett4]

what is a droop limiter????

[Kromulous]

Same as a chain on the LR, it just limits how much the Left front tire can drop down.

Run one on the RR as well.

[fastford]

ive never ran a limiter on lf frt, but it seems to me it could effect weight transfer to right rear, I would unhook it just to see what happens..jmo

[Matt49]

Wow...I see now that the question was about LF limiter and my response was completely thinking about LR...

Limiting LF rebound travel I would think would not have any real effect on entry since it should be in compression. Could cause what fastford is describing from the center off though.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

We have been fighting a ill handling race car for the 1st couple races of the year and i wanted to ask if you have the LF droop travel limited to much will it make the car loose in and thru the middle?

We are fighting a loose entry / middle and not enough drive off, not matter what i change. He says the car wont firm up and go, its like he has to wait on it. Once it does get on the straight it goes but it he looses to much speed in the corner.

Also the car is shredding the rear tires, more so than usual.

Pretty much standard 4 bar set up, 225RR, 200 / 165 LR, 100lbs bite. 500 LF, 350 RF high rebound. 5th coil is 36" out with a 350lb spring and no preload.

Thanks for any help, Krom.

I have found that limiting the lf droop does remove some sidebite and seems to improve drive off as it slows/limits the transfer to the rr.

[slmcrewchief99]

I totally agree with MBracer. When you tie down the left front it will improve the drive off plus it seems to help the car on entry. The car drives in extremely good. Yes there is a fine line on how high you can tie it up. At a certain point it will drive like a dump truck. If you take the cable loose completely it will free you up more so I wouldn't make that change. Pull it up just tight enough till its a pain to get the bolts out of the shock for a spring change to start. Run it and see if its better. Then tighten it up a little more if you can stand it. Personally I wouldn't go more than a 1/2 inch. Any more and we run into your dump truck problem. lol

[Matt49]

What is being used for this that also allows for adjustability? My new MasterSbilt has a tab on the LF frame rail almost directly above the lower control arm and I assume that is what this is for.

[billetbirdcage]

What is being used for this that also allows for adjustability? My new MasterSbilt has a tab on the LF frame rail almost directly above the lower control arm and I assume that is what this is for.

A simple round clamp that goes around the control arm with a non adjustable cable. With the clamp positioned on the lower arm directly below the cable bracket , just make the length of the cable you need for the longest drop you want. Then to reduce the drop just slide the clamp out board, thus limiting the travel.

A lot easier then messing with some sort of adjusting chain or length of tether

[GRT62]

what would be a good starting point on tying the LF? ive heard a 1/2" before the spring unloads but was wondering what everyone else thought.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

what would be a good starting point on tying the LF? ive heard a 1/2" before the spring unloads but was wondering what everyone else thought.

Honestly, if you plan to do that and nothing else it is really going to depend on your car and setup. I have seen a difference in the car by simply shorening drop a half inch from letting the shock top out.

[GRT62]

I added a lot valving on rebound to the LF shock the last time we rebuilt the shocks and it helped a lot with drive off so I was just wondering if I could get more by tying up the LF

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

In theory, you could have enough slow speed damping that you lift the lf wheel before the shock has much a chance to extend. You would need data and or testing to answer your question for sure.

The cars are complex enough that the answer to most questions is "it depends". On the driver, track, setup, car attitude, etc, etc

[RCJ]

To the loose problem,I would check the rear axle to see if it is bent.How much rear steer do you have?