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Actually a lot of what I have learned has been trail and error. Our chassis guy tells me straight up all the smart guys in racing run with the j-bar on the left side of the frame. When I made the switch I took the car from middle of the pack to front runner. Not only that, but I was also able to do the same to 3 other fellow drivers' cars. Also, I have read based on the articles you speak of, that the right side frame mount is faster on a tacky to medium bite track, but to my findings, my car is faster on slick to dry slick surfaces. I am also needing to run a much stiffer RR spring than the other guys I run with (because the weight now transfers through spring and shocks more than jacking via j bar) and that is even on dry slick track. I had to adjust my shock valving numbers quite a bit and it has taken me over a year to hone it down to a winning setup. Last race of the year last year, we cleaned house. My motor went in my car and I helped him. The weekend was a 2 day event, Friday was tacky and Saturday was slick. He won every race except for the one main on the first night on account of a flat tire, the RR was scrubbing against the upper shock mount and ate the side wall... The car tends to be a little tight out when the track is heavy or tacky. What I am saying right now, isn't regurgitating old articles. Max side bite happens when the RF and RR are sharing the blunt of the work, which means the RF actually tends to need a stiffer spring (or if you want to get really technical a bit higher final wheel rate in the corner) to compensate for the rear weight distribution.
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My buddy that is, I just re read that. He drove my chassis I had set up and I drove my old mans car, for about five laps until the engine seized solid..Comment
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Is Ed Howe your chassis guy?Comment
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Just thinking out loud here, but i would think a right side bar would rely on true body roll, and no jacking effect for bar angle that we get with a left side mounted bar. It would be a true roll center type of set up, i would imagine the bar would need to be lower on the outside end.
Stiffer RR spring, could produce a lot of sidebite. Since the more the car rolls onto the RR, the more the roll center would move lower. You would potentially get a lot less side to side movement of the rear end? or it would actually move to the right i guess.
Interesting to think about. I wish i had an older car to test with, and the time to work on race cars again LOL.
Just say no...Comment
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No Ed Howe isn't my chassis guy lol. And I like to run the bar like a mirror image of the left frame mount with the left side lower and the right side quite a bit higher, about 8" or more of split depending on what springs I am running and the track conditions. That way it still moves the rear end left/chassis right and puts more weight on the RR tire. The biggest thing I noticed was the consistency of the car, the angle of my front tires in pictures too, I notice that they are a lot more straight than other cars. I'm not saying it's the fastest setup out there, but the thing is, it's shown a lot of positive results for myself and I am a fan of it. I have also found it works better in conditions I was told it wouldn't work better in and worse in conditions I was told it would better in. I was also told the right side frame mount is too loose in on a dry slick but the last dry slick track we had I was able to get into the corner way harder than the guy in front of me. On my buddy's car on a tacky track we actually had to make a gear change because even with 580 horse, running 54% rear and 700 gears we couldn't break the tires free and had trouble getting RPM up quick. The thing was on rails. I've never personally had an issue with having that much rear traction, that was really a new complaint for me lol.Comment
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So a stack left rear is the way to go for slick tracks?Comment
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