need help with drive off nesmith streetstock

[racer22]

I have done some experimenting this season with setup and i have some inanswered questions. I have ran 400 pounds of bite all the way down to 100 pounds. I could ask 100 questions and still have more.Our track is semi flat, super dryslick. I have ran bump stops, the problem i had with bump stops seemed to be that when i went to a higher banked track the car would pick up a uncontrollable push off the corner if the car was not pointed in the direction i was going, you could not drive out of it, i hit the wall several times. The car seemed to be hooked up the best it has ever been, but i didnt feel right about the push, i was afraid of it in traffic? Has anyone else ever delt with this issue?
At the moment here is what im trying850lf. 900rf16"250 lr 13"200rr4040bil LF bsb hd50 RFbsb trac shock LRQa1 hold down like a 3/6 RRBite 380Left 51.7Rear 53I am needing help with drive off.
Here id some questions i have.
1. Which is better and why, alot of bite or small amount?
2. Stiffer lf or rf?
3. Traction shock better on lr or neutral shock on lr?
4. Soft front springs with bump or traditional heavier springs with no bump?
You can answer on here or pm me, all is appreciated

[Fox_hunter42]

you dont mention tire stagger, my opinion your to soft in front. Put 900 on lf and go 1100-1200 on rf. you don't give vehicle weight. if reading correctly, you have 380 rr bite, should be lr and half that. lighten left side a little, and check cross

[racer22]

Bite is 380 lr, car weight is 3200, i have tried the 1200 in rf, didnt really change much, the rf however has a bump on it also,

[racer22]

Usually 1 inch of stagger in rear, front tires headsup

[RCJ]

1.380 is a lot of bite.post your wheel weights
2.A stiffer left has some advantages, but whatever makes your car drive best is what you need.
3.either can work good
4.run traditional till your car is working good,then you can try the bump.The sweet spot is narrow on a bump and I really don't think it is needed on a stock car.

[a25rjr]

I have even run a 300lr on a super sandy slick track.

[racer22]

I have ran a 300 13" in the lr, all i hear is taller lr go 16 or 20 inch, im not really sold on it yet, i have ran a 16 inch 25, but not a 20, i guess im missing something on the bite, more bite the tighter the car b is off the corner right? I have a stable entry with the 380 bite it just needs a little help off, how would cutting the bite in almost half help? Not being sarcastic, if im missing something help me understand, the car is great when the track is a little tacky, or when it is trying to dry out, but come feature time the track is a dusty slick mess, one groove around the bottom berm super slick

[7uptruckracer]

You need to ask the right questions to get the right answers. How much travel are you getting on your RF? a traditional RSW or Puck Bumpstop is more a travel limiter and not a wheel loading tool in this application. The front springs aren't that soft. What is your bump stop gap? I don't like the setups listed above. Shocks are very important these days. I like to keep the front end into the racetrack so the geometry can work. With high bite you need a soft left rear 125-150 which is the reason for running the tall spring so it doesn't coil bind and better spring coil spacing. and a 200-250 RR. 54left and 52 rear and close to the LR bite you mentioned 380. 1-2 rear stagger depends on track and 0-1 in front. 7 1/4- 7 3/4 front heights whatever makes the front arms level 8-8.5 on the RR and use LR to set bite. 1/4 toe out. around +4 degrees LF camber and around -5 RF camber 2 degree caster split I run higher caster then most around 4-6 positive. I have a tie down slow bleed RF on a bump spring (for its linear properties) a high rebound LF moderate bleed lower end on compression. around a 10-2 LR and 2--5 RR

[racer22]

The car has a un controllable push while on the bump stop, not a on the throttle push or a tight push, the car seemed to get bound up even at low speed, it did not do it every lap, in fact i made my fastest lap times with that setup, but was very unpredictable, every peice of suspension is free on the car7up... i was on a christmas tree style bump, i have all the measurents as far as travel and how much i was getting into the bump, i even made a fixture to where i could pull my car down to check the rf wheel load. I usually started with the gap around 1/2 inch, i have adjusters on my shocks so i can adjust the gap

[racer22]

This past weekend i ran a 900LF, 800Rf and a 16"225 and a 13"200, 325 bite, 51.7 left,53 rear, hold down on rf with bump, 3-5 on rr with bump, half inch gap on both rf and rr bumps. Gassed up lr, around 10-2, 4040 on lf. The car was good when the track was tacky, one it dried out it was extremely dry nothing but dust, the car had ok drive, how soft is too soft if i was to take the bump off

[stock car driver]

Ill bow out, seems you and 7 up get along great good luck.

[7uptruckracer]

Just saying traditional still works, but with the new technology and way of thinking there are better ways to do things so why not utilize the front suspension.......I LOATHE COT bumps they can spike very very progressively if you want message me with your particulars on you bump stop Thats not alot of gap at all. I have run 800 with no bump and been fine. It could be so many things, you could have so little bleed its ratcheting down, The car in run a bump spring on travels 2" before it hits the bump and travels into the bump one inch for 3" total on a 650 with a bump spring stack. I don't run them on any other corners and have a ton more left then you. I definitely shoot to keep the car turning and keep momentum up that way you don't have to dial as much mechanical bite in on a car that already has a high rear roll center

[a25rjr]

I have tried taller springs on the lr, but not necessarily soft ones. I saw a huge difference in sidebite, which I thought would be less. Obviously, the high rear roll center can be manipulated.