How do you make a metric car three wheel

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  • stock car driver
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2007
    • 3233

    #16
    Originally posted by Ricky76 View Post
    How in the world can you run a 225# on the rr when the track slicks over ? If I do that, my car has no roll over and wants to slide up the track.
    What luke said is correct. I dont ever move my arms though, too much of a pain.

    To free my car up on tacky I usually run a stiffer rr shock and more psi and stagger in the rr tire. I also have a 2 inch spacer Ill put over there for tacky heats at times..


    I FEEL that the stiffer rr gives me side bite expecially on dry, I have ran 175/150/120 rr etc and it FEELS to me like maybe the car just falls over but doesnt have the ability to push the tire into the ground?

    Thats the best I can describe how I got to where Im at set up wise. It works for me and Im not really trying NEW stuff anymore.

    Fyi- Ive only got 25-75 of lead in my car usually its so heavy the USRA techs arent worried about scaling me anymore. Im at 3050 with zero lead on USRA Ar tires.

    My cell is 1.5 below my trunk lid, my fire bottle is shoulder height my battery is as high as the cell etc.

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    • Ricky76
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2010
      • 113

      #17
      I've never tried a 225# on the rr, but I may try it this weekend ? I tried not to put very much lead behind the axles, but when I did that, it didn't have any rear %. I've got my lead over the axles and a few pieces on the rear frame rails. The lead over the axles is up pretty high and my fuel cell and battery are up high.

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      • Ricky76
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2010
        • 113

        #18
        I thought for more forward bite, you wanted the lower rear trailing arms to be mounted low and not up close to the axle tubes ?

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        • stock car driver
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 3233

          #19
          Originally posted by Ricky76 View Post
          I thought for more forward bite, you wanted the lower rear trailing arms to be mounted low and not up close to the axle tubes ?
          I strongly disagree with that notion.. Ive lowered one and both arms and it FEELS like it adds traction because the car hikes up even in the pits, but once it gets to the top of the hike it has less traction than before in my opinion. Ive tried it up and down a few times on practice days at tracks.

          As for the lead behind your axle. I would rather have low rear than lead back there. I have no more than 52 rear EVER. That 52 is when I add about 100 over what I normally race at. I do have a full trunk lid and about a 50lb rear bumper. But no lead.

          My car transfers wt better than yours will with the lead behind the axle. With wt behind the axle it CANT get transfered to the front it is behind the axle holding the rear down like a teeter totter with more wt on one end over the other. If you put that wt on the teeter totter closer to the middle it will then go up and down easier.

          Same with our cars. If you spring your car to transfer wt you wont need the excessive static % others claim to need.

          Im usually around 49 rear.

          My numbers are NO driver in the car and half tank of fuel like after the feature. My rear does go up a percent when I get in I think.

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          • Ricky76
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2010
            • 113

            #20
            So you think I should raise my lower rear trailing arms up for more forward bite ?

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            • stock car driver
              Senior Member
              • Jul 2007
              • 3233

              #21
              Originally posted by Ricky76 View Post
              So you think I should raise my lower rear trailing arms up for more forward bite ?
              Mine are always in the top holes. Its not so much more bite but consistent traction.

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              • Ricky76
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2010
                • 113

                #22
                By putting them in the top holes, will that take away pinion angle ?

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                • stock car driver
                  Senior Member
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 3233

                  #23
                  No the holes on my brackets are in a arch the rearend doesnt move when changing holes.

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