Lower rr trailing arm metric

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  • a1driver
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 227

    #16
    if you have the lr arm level and the rr arm up hill its definitely going to drive off the corner sideways! LOL

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    • newguy
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2011
      • 170

      #17
      i have my upper arms level right now but the moumts on the housing are as low as they can possibly be. this is still leaving me with 10° on the lowers. is this acceptable? shouls i massage the lowers some more?

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      • Ricky76
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2010
        • 113

        #18
        Originally posted by outlaw087 View Post
        if u r on the gas when rear end rotates the bars ( angles down ) pulls up on frame taking weight off the rear end. if the bars ( angles up ) pulling down on the frame it keeps wight / bite in. does this help
        Are you talking about the lower rear tariling arms ? Do you want to keep them straight instead of having any angle in them ?

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        • outlaw087
          Junior Member
          • Sep 2007
          • 18

          #19
          Originally posted by Ricky76 View Post
          Are you talking about the lower rear tariling arms ? Do you want to keep them straight instead of having any angle in them ?
          I was talking about the top arms. I have my lowers level. all of my mounts is adjustable and on tubs and rod ends. all of the mounts is in the stock location.
          Last edited by outlaw087; 09-08-2011, 03:59 PM.

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          • Ricky76
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2010
            • 113

            #20
            Originally posted by stock car driver
            No I dont agree.

            The closer to level all 4 arms are the lower the rear roll center which promotes side bite and the more consistant your pinion angle, rear steer etc will be in and thru the complete corner.

            My old chevelle had all 4 level which many claim on here will bind etc. that car had more fwd drive than my metric by a long ways, it lacked in side bite but it was 6 inches wider track also which I attribute the lack of side bite to.


            The reason guys think more angle adds traction is they FEEL the tire drive up under them and lift on the car, so they FEEL they have more traction, what they have is more traction while its on its way up but once its under there you LOSE drive and traction and have to feather the throttle to get the rest of the way off the corner.

            A car with the lf arm down and rr up drives off the corner sideways, when your behind those guys you can see their door numbers on the drivers side and their whole lf tire... thats never the fast way around a track.
            So you're saying run all rear trailing arms straight ? Right now my top ones are straight, but my lower ones are at a big angle. The lower ones that have the mount on the bottom of the rear end housing are 4 inches from the bottom of the rear end housing. Should I change them and run them straight ?

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            • Driver88
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2011
              • 104

              #21
              Originally posted by stock car driver
              I run my lowers as close to the housing as possible ALWAYS...

              You must have a really high ride height as I cant get my uppers to 0 degrees.

              Are you saying from car to rear end your uppers run uphill?

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              • newguy
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2011
                • 170

                #22
                ok so i reset my ride height and massaged on my lower mounts and now have them level. this gives me about 5° in my uppers. is this a good starting point? i can legally relocate the mounts on the chassis, should i raise them?

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                • Ricky76
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2010
                  • 113

                  #23
                  Originally posted by stock car driver
                  I run my lowers as close to the housing as possible ALWAYS...

                  You must have a really high ride height as I cant get my uppers to 0 degrees.
                  Thanks for the information. My rr ride height is 9 1/2 and my lr is 9.

                  Comment

                  • newguy
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2011
                    • 170

                    #24
                    right now the car is on a jig and the rear end is sitting in saddles and cant move. i have some 4 hole brackets i was thinking of using. thanx for all of the advice.

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                    • fast_crew
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2007
                      • 844

                      #25
                      Alot of cars up our way have started running ride heights 10+ inches promotes more roll and side bite.
                      Josh K.

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                      • Ricky76
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2010
                        • 113

                        #26
                        Yeah when I raised mine up to where I have it now, it rolls over too much.

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                        • Ricky76
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2010
                          • 113

                          #27
                          I'd like to try that, but our track is a very small and very tight 1/4 mile that gets really dry slick. I'm thinking if I only run 51-52% rear, it won't have any forward bite. You have to slow down so much in the turns because the corners are so tight.

                          Comment

                          • gun91
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2007
                            • 288

                            #28
                            Originally posted by Ricky76 View Post
                            I'd like to try that, but our track is a very small and very tight 1/4 mile that gets really dry slick. I'm thinking if I only run 51-52% rear, it won't have any forward bite. You have to slow down so much in the turns because the corners are so tight.

                            I run a mustang hobby (unlimited motor rules with stock suspension) and never go above bout 52.5 rear. The rear suspension on the mustang is pretty much same as a metric

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                            • racingford
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2011
                              • 114

                              #29
                              stock car driver you said you run no lead out side or behind rear springs but your pictures shows lead outside of left rear weight jack and you run 200 lb of bite because your left lower is level .if you would put some angle it it you could back that bite off. angle in left lower will permote drive at left rear and yes angle in right will lossen it some into the corner only wile off the gas

                              Comment

                              • Ricky76
                                Senior Member
                                • Jan 2010
                                • 113

                                #30
                                Originally posted by racingford View Post
                                stock car driver you said you run no lead out side or behind rear springs but your pictures shows lead outside of left rear weight jack and you run 200 lb of bite because your left lower is level .if you would put some angle it it you could back that bite off. angle in left lower will permote drive at left rear and yes angle in right will lossen it some into the corner only wile off the gas
                                Will angle in the right give you more off the turns or should it be level for more out of the turns ? I see what you're saying about it being loose getting in while off the gas. I have both my lowers at an angle and my car is very loose entering the corner while I'm off the gas and I only run about 80# of bite in the left rear.

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