Narrowing rear frame rails on metric car

[streetstockguru]

Looking for some ideas on narrowing the rear frame rails on a metric car to allow a 58 inch floater and the ability to run a 5 inch offset wheel on RR. Also, has anyone ever tinkered with moving the LR trailing arm mount on the frame up about 2 inches to build drive into the frame for tracks that wont allow the adjustable brackets on the rearend.

JNJ, do you relocate the front upper control arm mounts to gain camber/caster without a ton of shims.

With the talk about moving the spring cup on the LR to the front of the rearend, do you also mover the cup on the rearend RR behind the rear axle tubing slightly? Whats the effect of this second move?

For the people that run the bearing trailing arm bushings, do you run them in all 8 spots or just on the lower bars only. Why? I've found that the most productive locations to run them are everywhere except the two mounts on top of the chunk housing.

[backspace]

Use a 62" center rear end,,then you may use 5" wheel

[a1driver]

run a 60" rear housing and play with your offsets to get what you need. raising the mount on the frame does make a difference, there is something to be gained by moving the rr also. the best i found was heim bushings in the lowers and front of the uppers with sofy rubber in the rear uppers.

[bushracing67]

you might have tire rub issues with a 62" and 5" wheels... granted i run late model tires, but a 60" rear with a 29.0rr on a 3" wheel rubbed the frame

[4bangerhotrod]

if you run the monoball bushings in all 8 locations does it not let the rear end move side to side any. wouldnt it be like running heim joints on a LM where you have to run a j-bar to control side to side movement.

[a1driver]

no the opposing angle of the upper and lower arms are what keeps the rear stable