brake setup?

[rnoswal]

My first full season in a factory stock will happen this year . I have been upgrading this metric monte carlo with discs in the rear and just the front left disc.
We have the stock master cylinder on the car, new and it still has the stock proportioning valve. We run slick nascar pull-offs with no grooving on a mid banked dirt track.
Stock suspension points with aftermarket shocks and springs, stock locations. I am not worried about the suspension, well I am,
but I would like the brakes to be set up right since there is no adjustable proportioning valve allowed at all in the class. I used to race mini stock a hundred years ago
and this same type setup pulled the car around and set up pretty nice into the corner but that was a long time ago and that car was a lot lighter!

What is a good setup as far as parts go for a three wheel brake setup. I know this is vague and I did do a search and was surprised not to find anything.
Like I said, I do have the rear bolt on plates for the discs and the stock gm brake calipers. up front is just the left brake and there is one stock m/c and no adjustable bias or proportioning valves allowed. And the booster is still here but not being used.

Thanks

Russ

[3dinter]

My first full season in a factory stock will happen this year . I have been upgrading this metric monte carlo with discs in the rear and just the front left disc.
We have the stock master cylinder on the car, new and it still has the stock proportioning valve. We run slick nascar pull-offs with no grooving on a mid banked dirt track.
Stock suspension points with aftermarket shocks and springs, stock locations. I am not worried about the suspension, well I am,
but I would like the brakes to be set up right since there is no adjustable proportioning valve allowed at all in the class. I used to race mini stock a hundred years ago
and this same type setup pulled the car around and set up pretty nice into the corner but that was a long time ago and that car was a lot lighter!

What is a good setup as far as parts go for a three wheel brake setup. I know this is vague and I did do a search and was surprised not to find anything.
Like I said, I do have the rear bolt on plates for the discs and the stock gm brake calipers. up front is just the left brake and there is one stock m/c and no adjustable bias or proportioning valves allowed. And the booster is still here but not being used.

Thanks

Russ

We run about the same setup, tires, etc here in Texas, a friend of mine tried the 3 wheel brake thing last year and when he would set it up right it would fly around the corner, if he was off a lil bit he would spin himself out. i would say he spun out more than he made it around the corner and if there was a wreck in front of him he was 95% guaranteed to hit them due to he couldnt stop in time. I personally like 4 wheel brake setup with a good Hawk Brake pad in the LF and a cheap on the RF. I use a wildwood master #WIL-260-4894 and no booster with stock drums in the rear and a 10lb wildwood residual valve to keep the pressure up a lil for the rear, i placed it just off the master going to the rear per wildwood tech. It doesnt feel like the old manual brakes and it doesnt feel like the power brakes kinda in between but more close to manual type feel. Im gonna try WIL-260-11179 this year, it takes the place of the combination valve. The master is stock appearing/replacement and they say nothing about a residual valve in our rules. Do a lil reasearch and look for a BB in the brake line and combination valve internal tricks "mud truck guys do this sometimes" that will give you some ideas also. They also make a combination valve specifically for a front disc and rear disc for the metric. what you have on there now is a disc/drum combination valve sounds like. JMO and everyone has got one and it sounds like you raced in the past so do what feels best for you.

[3dinter]

If you guys are running disc rear with thinner than oem front rotors you need to run caliper spacers behind the pads to make up the difference..

without them you will have a pedal that needs to be pumped to push the rear pistons out that far..

I raced a nova I built in 04 and 05 and found out I needed spacers after getting rid of that car that spun out on entry what seemed randomly..

"Very good point"

[Dirtrunner35]

Just use an old brake pad with no material on it, the inside pad will not come out because of the ears on it.

[cswitch11]

We run about the same setup, tires, etc here in Texas, a friend of mine tried the 3 wheel brake thing last year and when he would set it up right it would fly around the corner, if he was off a lil bit he would spin himself out. i would say he spun out more than he made it around the corner and if there was a wreck in front of him he was 95% guaranteed to hit them due to he couldnt stop in time. I personally like 4 wheel brake setup with a good Hawk Brake pad in the LF and a cheap on the RF. I use a wildwood master #WIL-260-4894 and no booster with stock drums in the rear and a 10lb wildwood residual valve to keep the pressure up a lil for the rear, i placed it just off the master going to the rear per wildwood tech. It doesnt feel like the old manual brakes and it doesnt feel like the power brakes kinda in between but more close to manual type feel. Im gonna try WIL-260-11179 this year, it takes the place of the combination valve. The master is stock appearing/replacement and they say nothing about a residual valve in our rules. Do a lil reasearch and look for a BB in the brake line and combination valve internal tricks "mud truck guys do this sometimes" that will give you some ideas also. They also make a combination valve specifically for a front disc and rear disc for the metric. what you have on there now is a disc/brake drums combination valve sounds like. JMO and everyone has got one and it sounds like you raced in the past so do what feels best for you.

I do agree. What you need to check for the setup is the right brake bias if you would be using brake drums/disk as a combination for your brakes.