Question about Metric Car Brake Setup

[jlaney04]

I have a metric car street stock, and im looking for some advice on my brake setup. I am using a stock monte carlo master cylinder, with stock metric front brake setup, my question is do i have to change anything or do anything special for running disc brakes in the rear? Its a floater 9inch with metric calipers, just wondering if i have to run special lines or different sizes or anything.

[jlaney04]

nobody has any advice?

[hot_rod]

nobody has any advice?

When I was running a factory master cylinder, We bypassed the proportioning valve with a Tee fitting. In the rear, we just ran factory rubber hoses from the caliper to a steel line to the Tee fitting with the factory rubber line going to the frame. We basically took all of the factory brakes lines off of a 7.5" rear end and put them on a 9" Floater. Hope this helps.

[3dinter]

I have a metric car street stock, and im looking for some advice on my brake setup. I am using a stock monte carlo master cylinder, with stock metric front brake setup, my question is do i have to change anything or do anything special for running disc brakes in the rear? Its a floater 9inch with metric calipers, just wondering if i have to run special lines or different sizes or anything.

The only thing i would recommend is changing the Combination valve out, they make one for front disc and rear drum, and they also make one for metric front disc and rear disc. Unsure if there is any real difference, but they do make them like 90$. 1 car we run has front disc and rear drum with a 10 psi residual valve due to we took off the brake booster and went with a wildwood stock looking master cylinder part # 260-4893. The other metric car we run uses a corvette master cylinder with brake booster and we changed the rear over to disc but DID NOT change the combination valve and i havent drove the car, but it seems to stop ok. in the rear we went with rubber lines from the caliper to new mounting tabs on each side of the axle housing using the stock metal lines and just cut and flared them shorter to meet up with the rubber ones from the caliper.

[3dinter]

When I was running a factory master cylinder, We bypassed the proportioning valve with a Tee fitting. In the rear, we just ran factory rubber hoses from the caliper to a steel line to the Tee fitting with the factory rubber line going to the frame. We basically took all of the factory brakes lines off of a 7.5" rear end and put them on a 9" Floater. Hope this helps.

Not trying to be rude, why would you bypass the proportioning valve.. ?? OR do you mean combination valve...we all call it something different..on a metric, the metal block bolted to the drivers side inside frame where the 2 master cylinder lines go into and you come out with 3 brake lines ?

[hot_rod]

Not trying to be rude, why would you bypass the proportioning valve.. ?? OR do you mean combination valve...we all call it something different..on a metric, the metal block bolted to the drivers side inside frame where the 2 master cylinder lines go into and you come out with 3 brake lines ?

Ya thats what we changed out. We kept having trouble with the rear brakes not being applied after we bleed the master cylinder and calipers, so we just bypassed. And the brakes worked better. I ran a factory metric master cylinder without a booster for a while, then we switched over to a late model Suburban or Yukon XL master cylinder. (They came from the factory with 4 wheel disc brakes, and it bolted right up with different fittings). The brakes got a lot better. We never run a 10psi or a 2psi valve. It probably would of helped. But once on the track, we dont use the brakes a lot anyway. They are mainly for loading the car on the trailer.

[3dinter]

Ya thats what we changed out. We kept having trouble with the rear brakes not being applied after we bleed the master cylinder and calipers, so we just bypassed. And the brakes worked better. I ran a factory metric master cylinder without a booster for a while, then we switched over to a late model Suburban or Yukon XL master cylinder. (They came from the factory with 4 wheel disc brakes, and it bolted right up with different fittings). The brakes got a lot better. We never run a 10psi or a 2psi valve. It probably would of helped. But once on the track, we dont use the brakes a lot anyway. They are mainly for loading the car on the trailer.

yeah i only run the 10 psi residual valve due to i still have drums in the rear and no Booster. Stops just like the old manual brakes on the 7.5

[stock car driver]

Ya thats what we changed out. We kept having trouble with the rear brakes not being applied after we bleed the master cylinder and calipers, so we just bypassed. And the brakes worked better. I ran a factory metric master cylinder without a booster for a while, then we switched over to a late model Suburban or Yukon XL master cylinder. (They came from the factory with 4 wheel disc brakes, and it bolted right up with different fittings). The brakes got a lot better. We never run a 10psi or a 2psi valve. It probably would of helped. But once on the track, we dont use the brakes a lot anyway. They are mainly for loading the car on the trailer.

prop valves have a re set button on them you have to re set after bleeding the brakes.

a prop valve is for emergency line failure, it closes off the line that leaked so you have pressure to stop at the other end of the car.

best to take all that stuff out period.