over heating

[grydergeyer26]

now that's it 105 out
I am pushing 240 degrees 5 laps n and that's were it stays constantly
I got two dash 6 lines going to the radiater the block is completely plummed from top to bottom
I have a 3/8 restricter n the thermostate housing
I have a 6 blade fan
I use hyberlupe so kinda confused on what to do its a 400 so I know heat is a issue

[Confused?]

Why the restrictor? Take it out our put a stewart racing T-stat in it. Also, the hi pitch 4 blade 18" or 19" fan will move more air than a plastic 6 blade will.

[grydergeyer26]

ran one twice ran hotter

[Confused?]

A friends car is running gas(IMCA Mod) with a triple by-pass radiator, Stewart stage 3 pump, Stewart racing t-stat and a 19"GM 4blade steel fan. Runs 210 in central Texas summer heat.

It's the total combination.

My car has a dual pass radiator, Stewart stage 3 pump, lines from the back of intake to the t-stat housing, lines from the bottom hole in block to the water pump, 4 blade steel 18" high pitch fan and no restrictor. Ran 180 breaking in the cam.

Point is, your problem may be any of these. Check the radiator closely foe blocked fins or any damage.

Also, all of my lines are #8. Both cars have 30% reduction pullies.

[Dirtrunner35]

Make sure the tubes are not swollen

[backspace]

A GM fan,,,sticking half way out of your"not mentioned" fan shroud,,no restrictor with 1to 1 pullies unless your are turning more than 7000 RPM's will do the trick on any 400. That is also along with your plumbing lines you mentioned,,,,I have been around the tracks for over 50 years and I have seen the radiator be the culprit more than once,,,If you bought it used,,,they sold it for a reason....Many people ruin their radiators with the pressure washers,,,,bend the fins over,,,and also if the radiator was on a car that blew a head gasket,,,it swells the tubes and air can not get through,,,Buy a new one every year,,cheap insurance for a high cost motor,,,Just my 2 cents worth

[ToddSmith16]

These things help your ability to keep cool:
1) Distilled water
2) 1:1 pulleys
3) good shroud with fan blades half in and half out of it
4) 17-19 inch GM 4 blade fan- no flex fans
5) No water restrictions
6) Single or double pass radiator... triples are not needed
7) Lines on intake front to back
8) Lines from water pump too heads
9) New and maintaned radiator
10) Good quality hoses-cheap ones have tendicy to collapse and bulge and/ or balloon
11) Upper hose level or as close to level from intake outlet to radiator inlet
12) Good quality water pump

[mudcrasy]

A new or good radiator cap also . I spent A few hundred dollars on water pump and things and it turned out to be a bad cap. Replaced the cap and things back to normal.

[grydergeyer26]

my intake sit higher than my rad and brand new fsr rad so no junk
30 degrees of timing so not pushing it thier
my hose run from back of the intake to the side of the thermohousing then to the radiater
and new lines and everything

[billy5]

30 degs timing may be to low causing overheating and hot exhaust temps..

[14flower]

andrew is unable to login so im posting for him. the problem was the restrictor was to big. the engine hes running befor we installed the fsr radiator ran a 1/2 whole now that we are running 2 -6 lines so we had to close up the restrictor whole from 1/2 to 3/8 and problem solved.

[14flower]

billy5 the exhaust temps are 250-275 at idle and go up 100degress for every 1500 rpm so at 4500 its at 500 but only on the driver side its down to 300 on the passinger side why would the other side of the engine egt's be so low ?

[billy5]

egts at wide open throttle should be close to 1000deg. sounds rich or retarded timing...

[14flower]

i know it should be 1000-1100 with load at wot but is what im asking is why is each bank of the engine running at such a big difference in egt's

[billy5]

big cam,,,,intake reversion...intake manifold vs exhaust design.....lots of variables at part throttle no load...never done a egt test not without it being loaded so not sure.....