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Looking for some opinions for this shock setup. I am gonna try something different this year in our sportsman after I got a hold of a nice set of integra shocks. We are a 3,000 pound 3 link car with a solid pullbar and stock trailing arms. 850 lf spring and 900 rf, 225 lr and 250 rr. The shocks are 9 inch rear and 7 inch fronts. The left rear is an 8/2, the right rear is a 4/4. 6/3 left front and a 3/5 right front. The car is around 180 lbs of bite. 358 I engine with a 2 Barrell carb. Full latemodel body.
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In my opinion the right front may be too soft? Not enough rebound to get the car back up off the ground for the corner exit having a solid centerlink. Would that be a good assumption? -
Seems like a good package to start with. I would run as listed for a slick track but for a heavy track I would try swapping the front shocks with each other.Comment
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Get ahold of Dave Hammond at Hammond Motorsports,,,,,,,,shock packages are "snake oil". Dave will sell you what you need not a generic set for everyone.We build fast race cars,,not race cars fast!Comment
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Since no one seems to think my shocks will work right with my car, I was suggested a different route. We have put 4 pro shocks on the car. 2 WB 94 on the rear, 9 inch stroke, 4/4 rates. And two WB 75 on the front. 7 inch stroke, 5/5 rates.opiniins over my previous package?Comment
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This car has 56% rear, 54.1 left, 50 cross and 125 lbs of bite.Comment
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Pro Shocks are a little softer with a smoother curve than most other "cheaper" shocks. They tend to start movement a little easier with less pressure needed to get that movement started. That is one of the reasons you see so many sprint cars with Pro Shocks, they work great with lighter weight race cars. They will work with anything if you understand how their curve is laid out and you adjust valving accordingly.
The Pros sound like a good, basic, baseline set of shocks. The RF is a little soft if there is bite in the track.
I didn't really see anything wrong with the first ones you posted, either.
The reason neither set is far off (possibly) is that what works for my driver may not even be close to your driver's needs/wants. SO much will depend on track shape, amount of bite available, tires, driving style and a million other things. I think "backspace's" comment about packages being snake oil is right on the mark. You really need to find a good shock person you can talk to, knows your tracks, knows your driver and your rules/car and is willing to work with you. It's probably more important than ever to have a shock "guy" you can work with and trust. I don't think brand is as important as the relationship between the shock expert and the driver's needs. You will also need more than 4 shocks to keep up with changing track conditions, moisture, engine changes, etc. It's not one size is good enough.
Any "expert" that hands you a set of shocks when you walk in the door or doesn't spend time talking to you before you buy/order shocks is just taking your money.
JMO,
SParkComment
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This package is close to what most would run with your type car. Your second package suggestion is what I suggest as a baseline starting point.Originally posted by HRGraphics View Post
Your roll centers , center of gravity , driver style and the type of track will dictate the shock package.
Shocks change the timing and the potential of the suspension movement.
I tune the shocks to the get what the driver wants.
I cant run a 3/5 in the RF on either of my IMCA Stock Cars; I would bury the RF frame in the track. I run a different roll center/ CG/ spring combo than most. But it works for others.Gator EngineeringComment
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Well we tested out our setup Saturday night. The right front buried its self into the track with a 900 spring and a 5/5 shock in the heat race. The rubber piece that tells you how far the shock has traveled was smashed as far down as it could go. Hard to tell how well anything else worked with the frame digging.Comment
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Sounds like progress to me.
In the heat how did the RR look? Rolling over, how much shock travel? The LF how much travel?
What about the main?
Heat, if the LF has good travel go to a 6 compression on the RF. If the LF is only getting 2 inches, drop the LF shock to a 4 compression.Gator EngineeringComment
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In the main, the rr wheel adapter bolts broke and the rr went flying off of the car down the front stretch so it was hard to get and accurate readings on the shocks. But in the heat race, there was about 2 inches of travel per shock besides the right front. The car had a nice roll to it, and picked up the left front a few times, even with the right front smacking the track. The front end was a little bouncy.Comment
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Only picture I have before the wheel broke.
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Car looks better than most of the other guys. Rolling over good for the small shiny spots on the track.
Put a 6 compression on the RF, leave the 900 in it.
How much brake going in; driver turns in hard on the brakes or just slow brakes and rotates in with steering wheel?
I would make the left b pillar solid, help the spoiler.Gator EngineeringComment
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No brakes, car rotates in on its own or with a little steering left. We had a huge debate over open or closed sails, we have 2 sets made to try both open and closed to see the effects on the car.Comment
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I don't know if I ever mentioned it or not but that car is not metric. I've heard the 900 is a little soft of the bigger, non metric car?Comment
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