When changing from a 10" spring to a 16" ish spring what changes would need to be made with the spring rates? (Running 175 lbs 225 lbs now)
Spring Rates (rear)
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Not really sure the total compression of each spring right now. (Car is tore apart for the winter) I read on a forum page someone had, there was a way to measure compression and figure what spring you would need! Their example was something like 13" 200 lbs spring would be a 16" 100-125 lbs spring. (Using a equation they came up with to get that). Stock car driver I should forget I saw that forum page and go with what the car knows and use what I have now just taller? (Trying to get more forward bit)
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Daaa , once again , thanks for clarifying my statement with you expert knowledge....just remember, 2 can play that game.....Originally posted by stock car driverThat only comes into play if a spring is becoming unloaded like a 4 link car.
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you had a post a while back that you said you were about to retire from driving, I can see why with that 10 year old set up. theres stock cars down here on way softer springs than that and flying. it may not be a late model, but some of the modern day late model stuff works on stock cars to.Originally posted by stock car driverI doubt it, Ive erased all my posts on here several times..
I would start
900/800
275/250
that's a conservative start that a lot of people have tried and liked. Spring rates can vary based on how high your motor is mounted, cell, even the cage etc. The last car I built myself everything was really high, I had to run stiffer springs in that car than my previous car.
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If the 10", 225 pound spring has an installed height of 8.5" there would be 337 pounds of preload on the spring. Going to a 150 pound spring that is 16" long would have an installed height of roughly 13.75 inches requiring 5 1/4 inches of jackbolt available to maintain the same ride height.BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

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