2.3L ford cam oil seal leak...

[Dirtman29]

I (was) losing oil from behind the cam gear @ race RPMs, approx 2 qts a nite! Got the new seal in, but the old one was pressed all the way in to the cam bearings. Shouldnt it be even (flush) with the front of the cam tower? Which way is correct, would like to know before I soak everything in oil again! Thanks for any info.

FYI this just started when I blocked off the vent on the oil cap & just had the block vented. Had both vented before & never lost any oil. Oil psi was the same both ways, approx. 60 psi.

[car62]

there is a flange on the seal that only allows it to go in so far...are you sure you are using the correct seal?

[TM 44]

Be sure you are putting Teflon tape or some type of sealer on the bolt that holds the cam gear in place. It will throw out oil like you described if no sealer on the threads. Just an idea.

[dannyracer6]

to add to what TM44 just said. The camshaft on the 2.3 is also an oil galley. Pull the bolt out that holds the cam gear on, get teflon tape, move up about 2 threads, and wrap about 1/2 inch of the bolt. put it back in and retorque, If you have the right seal, use it and press it back in It should stop what you are experiencing. Been there done that.

[Dirtman29]

Thanks for the replies. The seal I have doesnt have the outer 'lip' on it, came with the speedway gasket kit. Its the same type that has been in it for 3 yrs. now, but just started leaking. Had red RTV on the bolt threads, always had a little seep out there. This leak was definitely behind the gear.

[let-r-eat]

The front main seal, auxilary shaft and cam seals are the same.

Ditto on the sealer on the cam sprocket retaining bolt threads.

[PitManArm]

Thanks for the replies. The seal I have doesnt have the outer 'lip' on it, came with the speedway gasket kit. Its the same type that has been in it for 3 yrs. now, but just started leaking. Had red RTV on the bolt threads, always had a little seep out there. This leak was definitely behind the gear.

RTV isn't a thread sealer. Teflon tape is good, but who knows where the flakes go when you take the bolt out again. The best stuff I ever found was a product from the ThreadLocker folks called "Lock and Seal". Clean the threads, put a couple of drops on. It will seal the threads and is a light duty thread lock to boot. Less chance of the bolt coming loose.
Do you have a multi keyway sprocket on the cam? If so, the oil can migrate past the threads and move back thru the sprocket and leak out the back making it appear that the seal is leaking.
Also put some Lock and Seal on the threads of the pin the the tensioner spring rests against, since that bolt hole goes through into the area under the valve cover.

To lose 2 qts a night, the leaking oil has to be under pressure or below the normal level in the pan

[Dirtman29]

Esslinger adj. cam gear, one keyway. I will check that pin for the belt tensioner also since I cant remember if I put anything on those threads. Thanks for the info.

[PitManArm]

Dirtman29 - I had a chance to study a head without a seal in it today. There is a relief slot at the bottom of the groove between the front cam bearing and the seal. It is there to drain off any oil the comes out of the front of the bearing and relieve the pressure behind the seal.

Your first post, you said the seal was back against the bearing. This would negate the effect of this relief and allow the oil to be forced against the seal. that scenario would definitely push alot of oil out behind the gear.

I would look for a seal with the lip on it (FelPro?) and replace the leaker with that. Seal the threads and the pin, wash it all down and go racing.

Good luck

[Dirtman29]

PitManArm, I did notice that slot when I got the old seal out & was curious why it was there, I kind of figured it had to do with oil (to the front cam tower bearings). I have already installed the new seal & Im sure the old one was in (all the way) since beginning of '09 season with minimal leakage. Thanks for the advice, I may see if I can find the lipped seal.