Posting for a friend. Racing an s-10 in a stock truck class. Rules say engine must match make and model or truck, regardless of year. Trying to decide whether to go with the fuel injected 2.2 or 2.5 liter carbureted. I need to get a transmission also, so I don't have to worry about what will bolt up. What are your thoughts? Power, durability, etc...?
GM 2.2 or 2.5?
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If you can maintain all the computer accessories,OS sensors,map,tps,etc the 2.2 should give you a more durable,effiecent power plant.You will need to keep the rpm's down and focus more on torque than high end power.
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I'll add a few more details. All engine components must match factory specs. Only modifications allowed are up to .040 overbore, so guys can freshen the engines. So basically, which is the better engine with these rules. Whichever it is will be freshened though.
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Usually size is most important.2.5 would be prefered over the 2.2. BUT it is extremely difficult in stock trim to get the performance from a carburetor that you can get from fuel injection.Especially at moderate rpm's.
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GM 2.2 or 2.5
if you intened to run the 2.5 above 6200 - 6400 RPMs get ready to buy some new motors. I ran the 2.5 in my S10 for three years (with mods allowed) and could not get one to live above 6500 consistently and this was with strapped mains, good rods, pistons, valve train, etc. IMHO in a pure stock class you'll be better off with a Toyota or Ford with the overhaed cams.
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2.5 al the way
i have 2 car and we run 2.5 one engine we turn 72- 8 grand weekly the there 82- 9 grand u have to know how to put them together and use the right head
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2.2 or 2.5
if you're running the old Iron Duke Chevy motor and turning it over 7000 and making it live, you're better than any engine builder in this area.
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They could not even get the old Goody's dash cars to turn that much with the stock blocks. And when you say right head would you mean the the Monza style cross flow? We have some very good engine builders up here and the best of the best get 6500 to 6800. That is stock crank/block light weight aftermarket internals and a 10.5 compression rule with a no touch port rule. And even those let go from time to time. Problem seems to stem from very bad harmonics from the cam in block and push rods.
There are aftermarket blocks that can handle more but they use a V-8 head not a original or super duty head.
You can be competative with them but it takes work and you really need to be able to get the right gear ratio for every place you run to keep the rpm's down.
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looks like someone had to make a new screen name just to post their BS (turning severe rpm's)No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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I got 1 season out of my 2.2 (almost) turning 6500 - 7000 rpms. And that was with no rebuild and 200,000 + miles on the engine. I admit, I need to get the rpms down a bit. It seems the 2.2 will get you more power but the 2.5 seems so simple. No sensors and a carb.
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well come on down to north carolina and see how it runs. there is no bs here. it has all the best you can buy. the only real issue is the oiling system
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I want to appolagize, The KRP blocks will also accept the pontiac super duty and Fontana heads as well as the V-8 cup heads from yates etc.
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