Hard Blok block filler

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  • racer#10
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2010
    • 25

    #1

    Hard Blok block filler

    Looking to fill a 2.3 block with some block filler. Ive heard of people doing so in order to bore .60 over. My question is which block filler is best? I've seen the moroso brand, hard blok, and race engineering. Moroso is more affordable but is it the most effective? Hard blok comes I'n a short fill and a tall fill. Would the short fill be enough? Also, it comes I'n two bags, would one be enough for a 4 cyl? And is there anything special about filling the block? How much do u put in, fill to bottom of freeze plug holes, water pump opening, or how high?
    Anyone ran a block .60 over without using any block filler and had any luck?
  • car62
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 1579

    #2
    i have had good luck at .060 over with D4 blocks...the best way to do it is have the cylinders checked for thickness,and try not to overheat them at all.
    No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!

    If you build it right...it will turn left!!!

    www.raceidaho.com

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    • Milford Motorsports
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2008
      • 285

      #3
      We never had any problems with the cylinders at .060.Our problem was from running oem (Clevite) pistons,after about 10 to 15 races at 8000+rpm the wrist pin would pull out the bottom of the piston .I have known people who ran forged .060 pistons for more than one season and never had any problems.Isn't block filler rather heavy,would the slight over bore to .060 make enough extra power to justify the extra weight?

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      • Dirtman29
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 1690

        #4
        I've ran a .060 over E5 block for the past 3 years, still runs fine. Got to keep it cool, mine has never been over 200 degrees.

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        • Headhunter
          Senior Member
          • May 2007
          • 1338

          #5
          Block fill is no heavier than the water that would be in there. I hard blocked all my motors to just above the water pump hole and when it starts to set would clear out the area that the water pump will sit in. It really is not a matter of going .060 over or not that is entirly based on the thickness of the cylinder walls. What it does is adds grater stability to the block and less flex. Make sure you have all the bolts in place with never seize on them before you pour the block seal also.

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          • let-r-eat
            Senior Member
            • May 2007
            • 2319

            #6
            I have posted directions on how to do this here. Use Hardblock and takes 1 bag or short fill. Get you a beer can cooler and half moon with scissors to fit against the cylinder to put in water pump hole. I cut the bottom out of a quart jug of gear oil and cut the spout off about a 1/4" from the cap, you'll need this to get cement in water ports on the deck. Get a couple coat hangers to work the cement between the bores. Tap the sides with a plastic hammer to shake it down. I just put the block up on a table and level it. Torque the mains on the block before, then torque the head on the block when your through pouring.
            BUCKLE UP NOW, YA HEAR?

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