Need help (Ford 2.3L)

[Dirtman29]

Went to the track last nite & car ran like $hit the entire nite. Step on the gas coming out of the turns & it bogs & sputters to 5K, then it takes off fine. Car idles fine, low RPMs seem OK. After warmups, I changed the fuel filter. Was same in the heat. Then I changed ign. module (TFI dist.), also turned the carb adjusters in as someone noted the exhaust smelled rich (stock motorcraft 350 cfm, now set @ 2 turns out, was 2 1/2 out). No change in the feature, still ran the same. Got home early, so I did a comp. check, #1,2,4=160 lb, #3=145 lb. Plugs look fine. Took valve cover off, everything looks fine in the head. Last week it ran great, didnt mess with anything prior to last nite. Temp was at 170 all nite. I'm at a loss on this one. Any ideas?

[car62]

there are several things it could be,i would start with the basics,such as smelling radiator cap to see if it smells like fuel/exhaust,unhooking the tach,checking for good grounds,checking for proper fuel pressure,checking ignition timing,changing the coil,checking timing belt tension,etc...

[Milford Motorsports]

Get a rebuild kit for carb.Check all the internal parts for possible damage.Sounds like a bad accelerator pump,could also be the power valve.Replace them both,new gaskets,clean it thoroughly and blow out all the passages with air.Also replace all base gaskets to insure there are no vacume leaks.Should solve your stumbling problem.

[millerlt3]

also check to see if the float level is correct and not stuck

[Dirtman29]

Thanks for the advice, I did have the needle/seat stick open & dump fuel in it a few weeks back, but thats not the case now, no fuel seeping into the intake after I shut it off. New carb base gasket 3 weeks ago. Ill check into the carb further this week, hope I can still get a kit for it.

[Milford Motorsports]

We only run the motorcraft carb,they work great for us.Your problems really sound like they are carb related.When you remove the air horns,check the tubes on each side,make sure that they are clear of debris and are not cracked.( common problem )I have reused gaskets and got by but have found that replacing a couple $2 gaskets far offsets having problems at the track.Napa part # for a model 2100 is 2-5585, # for a model 2150 is 2-5714 Hope this helps some.

[Dirtman29]

We only run the motorcraft carb,they work great for us.Your problems really sound like they are carb related.When you remove the air horns,check the tubes on each side,make sure that they are clear of debris and are not cracked.( common problem )I have reused gaskets and got by but have found that replacing a couple $2 gaskets far offsets having problems at the track.Napa part # for a model 2100 is 2-5585, # for a model 2150 is 2-5714 Hope this helps some.

I have the "121" 2100 series carb, and it has worked great for 4+ seasons. I found a rebuild kit @ autozone, GP Sorensen #96-215. Thanks for the help.

I have another carb (same as the one Ive been using) that I know needs rebuilt, but I need the 2 adjuster screws for it. Can I get just those & if so, who carries them?

[Milford Motorsports]

I would check your local junk yard,they should have lots of parts carbs you can get your screws from.Will probably be a lot cheaper than new.

[Dirtman29]

I would check your local junk yard,they should have lots of parts carbs you can get your screws from.Will probably be a lot cheaper than new.

Ill try that, thanks. NOW, would a loose spark plug wire cause the problems I originally posted? Looking over the car tonite, I found #1 plug wire not snapped onto the dist. cap all the way, it was just sitting on the post.