Anyone know the weight difference between a 9" with drum brakes and a Ford 8.8 with drums? thinking about changing out the rear in my S10 to cut down on weight. I like the 9" because the ratio I run with the T-5 in second gives me the 7.44 i want. I know the 8.8 has smaller selection of ratios but figure the weight savings may overcome the lack of gear selection. All suggestions appreciated.
rear weight
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Are you happy with the RPM's you're running to get around the track? If you go to the 8.8 will the available gear ratios keep you in the RPM range you want to run? Seems to me all the engine builders design engines to run in a particular RPM range and if you change the rear gear ratio you may not be where the engine will perform at its best.
I'd say as long as you have the 9 inch already in place, with the huge selection of ratios available, you're probably better off. And you can spend your money on other things that may improve the performance.
On a side note I think a lot of racers spend way too much money on big engines when they really need to concentrate their efforts on making their car handle.
Mike
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what ratio are you currently running?No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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thats what i was thinking Olin...thats why i asked what current gear ratio is being usedNo matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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rear weight
Right now I'm running a 3.18 lightened, ploished gear. With the 2.34 second in the T-5, I end up at 7.44. On our track, a .395 flat paved oval, I'm turning about 7300 at the end of the straights.
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Rear weight
I have a lightened gear set now. I think one of the reasons i'm getting only 7300 with a 7.44 gear is we run 15" tires so my rollout, depending on stagger, is 84 - 86 inches. the 9" is narrowed and has Quick Performance solid axles. Hollow axles are not allowed. the drums (also required) are very big and heavy. i'm looking to cut down on rotating weight, and also looking to shave some overall weight. I figured the 8.8 or maybe the Chevy 10 bolt would do both. the smaller Ford would probably work but those are hard to find in my area.
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I hear ya now. Some issues there to be dealt with. Good luck!Originally posted by supertruck View PostI have a lightened gear set now. I think one of the reasons i'm getting only 7300 with a 7.44 gear is we run 15" tires so my rollout, depending on stagger, is 84 - 86 inches. the 9" is narrowed and has Quick Performance solid axles. Hollow axles are not allowed. the drums (also required) are very big and heavy. i'm looking to cut down on rotating weight, and also looking to shave some overall weight. I figured the 8.8 or maybe the Chevy 10 bolt would do both. the smaller Ford would probably work but those are hard to find in my area.
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If you could go to a 3.25 you would have a 7.60. If you could find a ford 8" it is lighter and has small drums. We run one in our s10 that has a 2.3 ford in it with a t5 on 15" wheels and depending on the track, we get close to 8000. Not sure if the 9" has 3.25 available in stock form or not. 9" has a lot of gear selections, but yes, they are heavy. We also run a mini spool.dr6 motorsports
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yes 3.25 is available in 8" and 9"....and 3.27 is available in both 7.5" and 8.8"No matter how hard you try...you cant fix stupid!!!
If you build it right...it will turn left!!!
www.raceidaho.com
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Keep the 9" run it in fourth and spend the extra money to get a lightened ratio you can find some up near the 7:30 and higher ring and pinion if you want and look hard. Your giving up way to much horsepower running it at less then one to one to worry about the weight savings in any other rear end they told us 20% on our mod 4 and on a 250 hp motor you do the math......What you might loose on paper in a final drive that a little lower say .10, .20 lower which roughly translates to 200 rpm you will gain back with the 1:1 ratio not to mention for our class hooking up that gear on a narrow tire is hard to do. Run the setup I'm running and it will work.....PM me for details.....
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Richmond Gear makes a 7.40 Ring and Pinion 69-0420-L I turned 7500 with a 7.27 Final Drive Its all in the momentum and handling and hooking up the gear but there is your ratio for 4th it will drastically help! Get your RR spring right for that monster sway bar and don't try to reinvent the wheel I had to up the RR spring rate a bit running that big sway bar the standard Rear rates wont work
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So where's the data sheets to back this up? Without good, hard, researched data this statement is pretty hollow and not really worth consideration. Seat-of-the-pants, gut feeling, beer induced BS just doesn't cut it.Originally posted by C10 View PostIt takes WAY less hp to turn the 8.8 .....
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