Distributor Module Help

[20MS]

I run a mustang 2300 with stock distributor and module per track rules. I am having problems with burning up distributor modules. With brand new module car is fast and motor pulls hard. After a week or 2 motor loses all pull coming off corner and car begins to skip. Replace module again and car is great for a week or 2 then same problem arises. Any ideas why I keep burning up distributor modules? I have removed tach from car, changed igition switch, changed coil, changed distributor itself and checked all wires and grounds. I am at a loss and cant keep module good for longer than 2 weeks. Causes me to go from top 3 car to a 12th place car instantly.

[Milford Motorsports]

Have you tried putting a ballast resistor in the line providing power to your coil,module.
Napa part; IC11R

[let-r-eat]

I run a mustang 2300 with stock distributor and module per track rules. I am having problems with burning up distributor modules. With brand new module car is fast and motor pulls hard. After a week or 2 motor loses all pull coming off corner and car begins to skip. Replace module again and car is great for a week or 2 then same problem arises. Any ideas why I keep burning up distributor modules? I have removed tach from car, changed igition switch, changed coil, changed distributor itself and checked all wires and grounds. I am at a loss and cant keep module good for longer than 2 weeks. Causes me to go from top 3 car to a 12th place car instantly.

They won't allow TFI? Mustang came with those. I would switch to TFI and get rid of the box and use TFI coil.......How do you have it wired? Do you have the white and red wire bound together going to ignition power? Green to negative side of coil and distributor plug plugged in? Good ground on engine to chassis straight to battery negative?

[84Dave]

The offering by L-R-E should head you in the right direction. And Milfords suggestion has validity. Are you currently using an after-market coil with the distributor module? If so, consider the following. Ideally, for maximum energy transfer between the module & coil, the impedance/resistance of the module should closely = the primary resistance of the coil. Example: If the terminal impedance/resistance of the distributor module is 2 ohms, but the primary resistance of the coil is .8 ohms, the coil will draw excessive current from the module & it'll almost certainly/ultimately fail. Mixing stock parts with aftermarket parts can often cause problems.
-Dave-

[20MS]

Sorry I did not specify, I am running the TFI distributor (the one with where module mounts to side of distributor housing). I have not tried a resister but have run 3 different mustang mini stocks and never had to use one, are most guys using them?? My module is wired as follows... i use the bottom 3 wires on plug. Bottom wire goes to a ground, middle wire goes to coil negative and top wire goes to coil positve. Other drivers I talk to arent using the ground, could that be a problem? I am running stock coil and stock module from advanced auto. Thanks for everyones input.

[Dirtman29]

Sorry I did not specify, I am running the TFI distributor (the one with where module mounts to side of distributor housing). I have not tried a resister but have run 3 different mustang mini stocks and never had to use one, are most guys using them?? My module is wired as follows... i use the bottom 3 wires on plug. Bottom wire goes to a ground, middle wire goes to coil negative and top wire goes to coil positve. Other drivers I talk to arent using the ground, could that be a problem? I am running stock coil and stock module from advanced auto. Thanks for everyones input.

Your top wire should go to a 'hot' wire, not the + coil. I (think) I have mine going to batt. side on the solenoid, been awhile since I wired it. Ive used the same junkyard TFI dist. & module for 5 seasons & have never had any issues.

[drtlvr]

Dielectric grease on the back of the module?

[20MS]

Yes dielectric grease on back of module. Forgot to mention i run a stock alternator pushing out approximately 14.2 volts. Have tried running a few weeks without alternator hooked up and still burned up a module.

[1195]

ground wire

Where do you have the ground for the module hooked up? It needs to be grounded to the engine not the body. Hooking the red module wire up away from the coil is good advice.

[car62]

i would be willing to bet the bushing in the distributor is going bad,causing excessive heat...have you ever considered modifying a remote aluminum heat sink to get the module off the side of the distributor? ill post pictures tomorrow,i collect these heatsinks and modify them and use them in our cars.

[TR32]

Pretty much agree with all the posts above. Mine is wired with the bottom three wires. Never a bad thing to use the ground wire as long as its done right. I have mine grounded to one of the bolts on the fuel pump. Also, never use an aftermarket coil with the tfi, use the stock ecoil. This setup does not require a ballast resistor. Lastly, run cool air directly to the tfi module, they tend to run hot and burn up especially with all the heat generated by a race motor......hope this helps!

[car62]

here is a picture,the one on the left is stock,the one on the right is modified

cannot get uploader to work,perhaps photobucket will work

[20MS]

Thanks for all the great ideas. I have the wiring apart now and I am double checking all the basics.

[TOTALAWSUM7]

Car62...how are you connecting between distributor and remote module?

[car62]

3 wires with gold plated small spade connectors..they go on tight and havent had any issues....best part is the modules almost perform better by barely being luke warm after the feature