distributor aux shaft trouble

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  • return to dirt
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 1008

    #16
    jb35,
    i run m86c or m86e pumps with tfi distributors and have never had a problem with stock gears, roll pins, or stock aux shafts. i DO use some common sence and not run the engines up until they are fully warmed up. i run my engines from 7500 to 8500 rpm. i have a 2264.5 big e vacuum cam i turn to 7500, schneider hyd cam i turn to 8000, and had a jbv solid i turned to 8500, all with no problem when set up correctly and fully warmed up.

    olin

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    • 56Racing
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2007
      • 138

      #17
      I was running the M86E pumps for a long time. The qaulity of the machine work got so bad I switced to the M127 pumps.

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      • heath carlyle
        Junior Member
        • Aug 2009
        • 8

        #18
        Robert you must be running the new head. we did the 10mm plug 2 years ago. don't put all you eggs in the big e basket
        they are not what they are cracked up to be. i have been silent, watching what has been said, on here,facebook etc.
        they have a long way to go.

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        • return to dirt
          Senior Member
          • May 2007
          • 1008

          #19
          Originally posted by 56Racing View Post
          I was running the M86E pumps for a long time. The qaulity of the machine work got so bad I switced to the M127 pumps.
          i haven't bought a new pump in 8-10 years. i disassemble my old pumps, clean and inspect them, and reuse them. even the original pumps can work if inspected and are in good shape.

          olin

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          • heath carlyle
            Junior Member
            • Aug 2009
            • 8

            #20
            i agree about the pump dont waste money clean the old one

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            • Headhunter
              Senior Member
              • May 2007
              • 1338

              #21
              I ran 2.3's for a long time and never had a failure with the stock shaft or gear. But that said from day 1 I would remove the fuel pump lobe (electric pump) and turn it down smooth and make sure of the pattern and also the dist. shaft was free. Had a couple rebuilt ones tighten up. I did this for another racer that was breaking them all the time and he tore it up first night out but was a start it up and go on the track guy that did not think you should allow the motor to warm up and the oil either. I would idle my motors to 200 degrees and shut it down and let it soak about 15 minutes before I went out. As for the Melling oil pumps, check them before you put them in. I lost a brand new motor when a yellow o-ring got stuck in the releif system. Never saw a yellow _o-ring in a 2.3 ever.

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