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Currently building a 2000 Cavalier UCAR for my son to race on a 3/8 mile banked dirt track. Suspension must remain stock with the exception, racing springs are allowed. We are new to this class and FWD racing, any suggestions on what rate springs for each corner would put us in the ball park? I was told by a friend to run LF- 275, RF-350, LR- 75, RR-150 but not sure if that is the best route. His car pushes pretty bad, as most FWD's do, but I have seen ones turn much better than his. Thank you in advanced for any help.
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Last edited by old school flyer; 02-15-2015, 07:32 PM. -
When you say "remain stock", I assume you mean OEM parts.....are suspension modifications allowed? If so, preload the fromt sway bar and slot the strut holes to get your camber. I've also put a spacer on top the RR strut and a couple extra washers behind the rear hubs to get a little rear steer (turning the rear wheels out of alignment to the right). Rear steer helps if your smooth with the steering. If you tug at the wheel the car wants to turn around on you. All that said, tire stagger will help the most! -
If your a former RWD racer, remember most of what you did then won't work now, but the theories are similar. Just think of what you used to change and whay, then try relate it to the LF. If you can get both fronts biting your push should get much better.Comment
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Thanks for the reply. We are moving up from karts so this is all new to us. We are allowed up to 5 degrees RF camber, that's about it. OEM parts with the exception of being able to use racing springs. Wheel base can differ 1/2" between the two sides. I have read several different theories one how to set one of these cars up to help over come torque steer. Do I want to load the RF or LF more? I have even read where some have the stiffer springs in the rear if the car. I have also read about reverse stagger to try and keep the LF wheel loaded and pulling in the turns instead of just spinning.Comment
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We run a 1/4 mile high bank clay track. What we've found to work the best for tire stagger is the tallest tire on the RR, Next tallest LF, then RF with the smallest on the LR. We don't run a locked front end though so front stagger may change if you are.Comment
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We are not allowed to lock the front end either. All tires must be the same tire size as well. Curious of what the thinking behind your stagger theory is. I have seen pics of cars that have a small LR and a noticeably larger LF. I'm just trying to get a understanding of what that does.Comment
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There's a difference between what the numbers on the side of the tire say and the actual diameter. Different brands, wear and different air pressure can make a big size difference. Measuring them can let you play with stagger and still be legal. Largest RR helps teeter the car down on the LF. We run the smallest on the LR because it doesn't do anything anyway. We usually carry that wheel through the corners. 3 wheeling can make a fast corner, but it really puts a lot on the driver. They have to be smooooth! Do what you can to plant both fronts, make them both pull instead of spinning the inner. That'll just run you up the hill.Comment
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Got you on the tires, I know all about tire sizes from karting where a 1/8" one way or the other can make you the man or junk. I know some tracks allow you to run different size tires, ours does not though, so large amounts of stagger are going to be a problem. But I will measure them and take what I can get out of them. So, would you rather run stiffer springs on the rear of the car or the front? I have heard arguments for both. Not really sure of which theory to buy into at the moment. I can see where both seem logical.Comment
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Haven't really played with the springs on our FWDs. On our RWDs we try plant the RF and LR so if I were to try, I'd probably try planting the LF and RR on a FWD. No experience with it though. Hopefully someone else has first hand experience that can chime in.Comment
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