running hot

[Jb35]

I race asphalt ford 2300. I have an issue of running hot and i can't seem to keep this thing cool. As long as were under green conditions temp just keeps climbing until we get a caution then it will cool back down. Motor runs awesome we've won a couple races with it. Its been up to around 225 hottest I've let it run. I've got a custom triple pass radiator I've tried and had tested, and a double pass summit racing radiator I bought new. Tried new radiator caps on both radiators. (33 lb cap on custom and 16 lb cap on summit racing) I've tried electric fan and manual fan on water pump pulley. I've tried a restrictor washer in water neck and without. I've tried different hoses currently running hoses with wire on bottom hose to keep it open. I've replace water pump with new. Motor has race engineering serpentine belt under drive pulleys. There's a big opening in front bumper with duct work to radiator. It isn't pushing any water till I shut off the motor and I run about a half bottle of water wetter with water in radiator. I am stumped any ideas.

[Dirtman29]

OEM cast waterpump with a big pulley, mustang GT OEM plastic tank/aluminum core radiator, NO restrictor in t-stat housing (make SURE you have a late 80s thin cast housing), stock upper/lower hoses and an elec. fan & use DISTILLED H2O, dont use tap water.
ALSO try an air dam the width of the radiator core to 'scoop' the air up into it at race speeds, about 1-2" lower than the nose. Bend it at about a 20-30 deg angle. This alone will help a lot IMO.

I ran this exact combo for many years and my 2.3L fords never got over 200 deg., mine were usually turning 72-7500 RPMs. Only used the fan under caution or after the race and temp was down to 180 when I got back to my pit.

[bobdoo]

I race an 8cyl.street stock, so with that in mind, the guy next to me had multiple DNF's because of temp issues, similar trouble with similar parts. Triple pass rad, underdrive pulleys with Stewart pump. All these parts and he still ran hot. This is what he did, 1) Stewart says "spin their pumps" 2) he went back to single pass aluminum rad 3) installed an air dam below rad support 4) installed 20 something lb cap 5) plain water with a bottle of Water Wetter. His problem went away

[dave41]

timing + too lean .back timing 2 % increase jet size 2/1000

[Dirtman29]

I always set timing at 36 deg. Also, since dave41 mentioned jets, what carb are you running?

[Jb35]

I'm going to try to jet it up some but I don't think it's lean. Running 350 holley, 72 jets. Carb built by competition carbs. Turning motor 82 to 8300 rpms. Plugs look good. 36 degrees advance timing but will try less just to see if it helps. Duct work acts as air dam.

[dave41]

heat ring on ground electrode should be in first 1/3 of bend. look very close

[7uptruckracer]

Triple pass needs to come off

[Jb35]

7uptruckracer. Double pass is on now. Not arguing with you, but y not triple pass just out of curosity.

[7uptruckracer]

Go to Stewart's site you don't operate at enough pressure to get the volume to run it and cool it. Just stick a mechanical fan on it and call it a day.

7uptruckracer. Double pass is on now. Not arguing with you, but y not triple pass just out of curosity.

[7uptruckracer]

Also what rods do you run that will tell you timing also check yor marks make sure it's set where you think it is and your lights correct been there done that. Run higher cap on the double pass