Chevelle Clip, Spindles?

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  • Kromulous
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 3008

    #1

    Chevelle Clip, Spindles?

    Whats the preferred spindles out there now on the Chevelle clip? AFCO clip.

    I see AFCO offers a Pinto based spindle with a 7 degree pin, and a 10 degree pin, what impact does this have on the geometry?

    Thanks, Krom

    Just say no...
  • 95shaw
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 205

    #2
    The different kpi changes the scrub radius.
    Which changes weight jacking.

    Myself, I would prefer near zero scrub radius on the rf and tune lf scrub radius along with caster and camber to help turn in.
    Last edited by 95shaw; 09-23-2020, 06:31 PM.

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    • outlaw4j
      Member
      • May 2012
      • 72

      #3
      Most guys are on the 7 degree to reduce jacking. If you dont have to steer much it doesnt much matter. The three piece spindles are nice as you can replace arms as needed. the original factory pinto spindles are still the strongest i think.

      Three piece are also nice as you don't have to do any reaming for ball joints. And no brake bracket stuff to fiddle with.

      Comment

      • JustAddDirt
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 1893

        #4
        7-8º pinto spindles are weak were they cut into the top ball joint elbow.
        ARGO AMC spindles are nice and they are 7º but $$$$
        Original Chevelle spindles are 8º
        Brian Ruhlman makes billet steering arms, brake brackets and a bearing kit to use the Hybrid rotors.
        you can order new spindles from Summit Racing. they are forged units.
        The Allstar 3 piece spindles are basically a copy of the chevelle's and are 8º

        all depends on budget.
        the good thing about the original chevelle, ARGO/AMC, and Allstar 3 piece is the steering and brake brackets bolt on, so you only have to carry 1 spindle as a spare. I used to carry a spindle with the rotor already assembled, so i just had to bolt on the brake and steering arm real quick to complete a repair.
        I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

        Comment

        • 95shaw
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2007
          • 205

          #5
          Actually, 7 degree spindles increase weight jacking because the pivot axis is farther from the center of the contact patch.

          Kpi by itself actually creates positive camber into the tire in both turn in and countersteer. Which helps by making wheel self centering.
          Rolling caster into rolls the camber change curve to where there is more weight jacking at countersteer, with less at turn in.
          Last edited by 95shaw; 09-24-2020, 11:49 AM.

          Comment

          • Kromulous
            Senior Member
            • May 2007
            • 3008

            #6
            If your going to say a 7* spindle on the RF, using a less offset wheel would be more beneficial, to keep the KPI down, and less scrub radi?

            Currently i run a 2" offset, and set of Speedway 3 piece spindle deal. Just looking to get a better steering feel, a little sharper cut feeling.

            Anyone ever manipulate the steering arm length to get some ackerman effect on the LF?

            Thanks for all insight on the spindles, i hear a lot of debate on the front ends but there seems to be a slew of options out there LOL.

            Just say no...

            Comment

            • outlaw4j
              Member
              • May 2012
              • 72

              #7
              How much caster offset? that helps get some feel.

              We also seem to like a 3" off better on RF. I also think running +5 LBJs help as well, and we like to keep RC in the middle but alot of guys move it left a bit.

              Comment

              • 95shaw
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2007
                • 205

                #8
                My understanding is that 7 degree spindle produces a larger arc that is associated with KPI

                If we roll more negative caster in, up to matching KPI, we can move all camber gain (meaning more positive) from KPI to the countersteer portion of the steer cycle. Same applies for the Lf

                We also need to remember that more negative static camber on the rf moves the scrub radius by moving contact center of contact patch.

                We can accentuate the scrub radius effect on weight jacking by adding more positive camber to the lf.
                This may achieve the nearly the same thing as changing ackerman without altering off the shelf components.
                Last edited by 95shaw; 09-24-2020, 06:25 PM.

                Comment

                • Kromulous
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2007
                  • 3008

                  #9
                  Larger arc radii, outboard looking into the wheel, producing less weight jacking on the chassis.

                  Your second statement has me thinking, still cant get my head around it yet. So you would run near 7* castor on the RF in order to keep the caster gain in the counter steer area?

                  Negative camber also produces somewhat of a "gears" effect, i think they call it camber thrust, where it makes the wheel want to turn into the camber automatically.

                  I love to alter things, so that dont bother me but what i am looking for is a bit of Pro Ackerman on the LF so the car steers in better on the fuel. You notice the SLM nowadays always look like there turning left going down the straightaway? Thats what there doing i believe.

                  Just say no...

                  Comment

                  • Kromulous
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2007
                    • 3008

                    #10
                    Outlaw4j, i believe i have a 2* split. Really just getting into it, haven't had time to work on the front end yet, the back end has been giving us fits. Finally found some traction, and now looking for more speed elsewhere.

                    I am gonna replot everything, and will get the official numbers. We got a race on the 3rd, so i am going to get a 3" on the RF just to try.

                    Just say no...

                    Comment

                    • MasterSbilt_Racer
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2007
                      • 14304

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Kromulous View Post

                      I love to alter things, so that dont bother me but what i am looking for is a bit of Pro Ackerman on the LF so the car steers in better on the fuel. You notice the SLM nowadays always look like there turning left going down the straightaway? Thats what there doing i believe.
                      Krom,

                      What you are observing is a decent amount of toe out and a lf tire that is not influencing the cars direction at that time.
                      Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing

                      Comment

                      • outlaw4j
                        Member
                        • May 2012
                        • 72

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Kromulous View Post
                        Outlaw4j, i believe i have a 2* split. Really just getting into it, haven't had time to work on the front end yet, the back end has been giving us fits. Finally found some traction, and now looking for more speed elsewhere.

                        I am gonna replot everything, and will get the official numbers. We got a race on the 3rd, so i am going to get a 3" on the RF just to try.
                        6 on RF and 3 on LF. With the speedway spindle up to 7 on RF is ok.

                        I dont think you are off anywhere, what you are feeling is pretty normal with a mod. For my son we tied the RF down a bit too just to help that RF stay down as you pick up the throttle.

                        Comment

                        • 95shaw
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2007
                          • 205

                          #13
                          Krom
                          If you draw the arc at the end of the spindle with no caster, the ends of the spindle move downward in both turn in and countersteer.
                          If you roll that arc back with negative caster, the ends of the described arc roll with it, ending up with the turn in end moving up slightly from the height at steering straight ahead, and the countersteer end of the arc moving downward much more substantially.

                          I have a picture from another discussion, but cannot get it to post.
                          Last edited by 95shaw; 09-25-2020, 07:53 AM.

                          Comment

                          • Kromulous
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2007
                            • 3008

                            #14
                            Ok, gotcha. I was thinking the same but wanted to make sure.

                            I dont think i have that much castor on the RF, will get it checked, and reset if needed. I put a simple angle finder on the spindle an it was 4*, but will check it using the 20* swing method.

                            MBR, i think there is more to it, i was inspecting a XR1 closely, and the steering arms are manipulated to produce some funny Ackerman.

                            Just say no...

                            Comment

                            • JustAddDirt
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2007
                              • 1893

                              #15
                              Krom, are you using the Metric steering Arm, or the Mustang II?
                              I think there should be lifeguards in the genepool.

                              Comment

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