body roll

[JustAddDirt]

roll

we measure from bottom of top overrail to top of top of axle tube and it measures 4.25" from ride height to full travel that is allowed. we run usra kk704

Depending on how far in the framerail away from tire, that could be 6" of drop at the contact patch of tire. May be too much.
just an observation.

[thfleshman]

if the car is not rolling over (assuming all binding issues if any) are fixed in suspension get a long yoke and try to bury it in the trans we had issues and the yoke actually was binding on the shaft(not the housing) because the yoke was hitting the shaft where the output shaft splines ended. we took the output shaft out and had it relief cut about .010 and its perfectly fine now. I believe the new trans may even be doing this from factory now?? thats just hear say

[hasben]

we have checked the yoke travel into the transmission. No problems.

[JustAddDirt]

4 bar

If you are on a 225 on the RR with a KK 704 tire you may be too stiff depending on tracks ran. I run UMP tires, and that 225 RR spring works well on our tires. But we have a softer sidewall.
What are your shock valvings?
If you have some stiff valving, or alot of low speed in the RF you may need to soften the RF spring 50# at a time till you get some movment. 1.5-2" is not alot of travel. Are you on a bumpstop on the RF?
Chassis roll, or hike does not always promote forward traction or sidebite.
What is the car doing, or doing wrong?
Is it skating across track on entry or through middle?
No forward traction?

[MM90]

Body roll doens't create sidebite, sidebite creates body roll.

[hasben]

If you are on a 225 on the RR with a KK 704 tire you may be too stiff depending on tracks ran. I run UMP tires, and that 225 RR spring works well on our tires. But we have a softer sidewall.
What are your shock valvings?
If you have some stiff valving, or alot of low speed in the RF you may need to soften the RF spring 50# at a time till you get some movment. 1.5-2" is not alot of travel. Are you on a bumpstop on the RF?
Chassis roll, or hike does not always promote forward traction or sidebite.
What is the car doing, or doing wrong?
Is it skating across track on entry or through middle?
No forward traction?

Car does not skate on entry or middle. Driver say that you just have to wait on the car to turn. So it could be skating to a degree. It does not appear that they are taking too much speed into the turn. This was with about 60# lr bite. Also we run WAR shocks ( I do not know the valving). We have lowered front springs to 500/550 and are considering lowering rear to 175 to promote forward bite and to help car getting over onto right side. We do not run bumpstops as car won't roll over far enough for them to work.

[JustAddDirt]

car

Body roll doens't create sidebite, sidebite creates body roll.

Jackpot!!!

Hasben,
Have a some questions:

What kind of chassis?

If you have to wait on the car to turn, is it too tight on entry and threw middle?
If car is understeering on corner entry, then it will just scoot RF tire across track and never scotch it up and get on the RF.


How long has your driver been driving?

How long has, or has he ever driven a 4 link modified?

Does he trailbrake?

Do you have a brake floater on LR?

Does car set down on corner entry, or stay up on the bars?

Does he arc the car into the corners, or drive straight into the corner, and try to turn car quick with brakes?

Is he driving into the corners as hard as the frontrunners?

[Dirtrunner35]

Great questions above. Why do you think the car isn't rolling enough ??

[johnny v]

I have worked on a couple of different cars at the same tracks that "hasben" races on.... and all at one time or the other experienced the "wait" on the car......

I call it a failure to rotate.....

Its real hard to "arc" cars into the corner around here because I would classify the tracks as almost "Paper clip" type .....

Cars that are Real Fast every week seem to turn in "on there own" and stay up on the bars all the way through the entry, center and exit...you never seem to be able to tell or see that wait on it or hesitation.....they never loose much momentum......

Lots of MY Chassis issues are really Driver issues... but I do run about 3.5" of stagger, High Left Side %, about 3 degrees of castor stagger and around 40#s of bite to help the car turn and rotate... and harp at my drivers to brake straight, let off the gas slow, arc it in, let it rotate and then roll back into the gas slow........

[hasben]

so in essence we don't have the needed amount of side bite & car is slipping?

[hasben]

too many questions! can't remember them to answer. Car is an Impressive has floater on lr. car sets down on lr but does not slam down too hard, driver experienced in 4 bar mod & late model, driver goes into turn with competitor and they drive away on exit. Frontrunners are at the front and we aren't (LOL). Driver has tried all angle of entry.

[johnny v]

so in essence we don't have the needed amount of side bite & car is slipping?

I would go the other way..... with 0 #'s of LR, you should have sidebite out the ball park... It seems like you might be too tight on entry.....

IMHO and with notes from Shane C off the old dirt forum: If you going to run 0 bite.....

550 LF 450 RF 200 LR 225 RR, 0 bite, 56% rear, 55.5% left , all with driver....

Also from Shane C blog post:
I typically don't do much to tighten entry from the baseline as the track slicks off, as the driver has a brake adjuster and 2 pedals that he should be able to adjust entry with as needed. It is better to error on the loose side on entry for than to get the car too tight to turn in most cases, and some good footwork from the driver should usually do the trick.

[bittight]

Sounds as tho your to stiff on rr spring, lr #'s are maybe a little high but not bad the bite in lr should actually help it turn into corner. If it was me I think I'd try to soften the rr spring 25# at a time. Tight paper clip tracks I've saw guys go from 200# to 150# at places such as haubstadt, putnamville ect. If your track has banking you really don't need all the side bite the heavy rr spring promotes on entry. But if u get to soft on rf with banking the car won't want to stay down it'll want to dig into surface and push up from the experience I've had working on these cars for the past few yrs. also if you have to much rake in J bar it will top out n not let the car roll up onto the right side as far, it'll roll faster, make quick side bite then done so you'll be tight entering then the rear will run out early middle and want to scotch out late center and exit. Another thing that can cause it not to lay over on right side is to much angle in the pull bar, to much angle seems to hold the car off the rr spring. Do you run a 90-10 dampener on top the housing if so I'd try to leave it off, soften rr and I bet it will help you turn into and rotate a lot better.. Good luck

[hasben]

forward bite

bittight you have described some of our problems we had with a different car. The angle of the jbar intrigues me. I have been thinking that we have too much angle and the driver described what you were saying - except they called it loose. So we worked on that. Jbar angle could possibly be a part of our issue.

What do you think we could do to enhance our forward drive?

[bittight]

Less rake in j bar should help with that some also. If u get the entry working to where u can trail brake it into the corner and the car wants to go left on its own then that will help your traction off the corner cause your carrying more momentum through the center and by trail braking roll into gas sooner and easier which in turn keeps your rear tires hooked up cause your not sliding the thing early center to get it turned if that makes sense. Id be sure to also go thru the bump steer and caster/camber before you even mess with any of it, bad front end settings will kill a cars entry if its not naturally set to turn down the track, its not going to turn well if there pointing towing in or out from one another.. Keep in mind I've never driven a 4bar car only crewed for one of the better mod drivers in the Midwest and we had pretty good success.. Watch the car if your not the driver, and I like to stand on the fence at corner exit so you can see if the nose pushes, or is he's back steering it hard thru the center and on exit. Shock valving If bump, j bar and rr spring aren't helping. also u can soften lf some to help entry but that's not going to help exit.