Caster Question?

[Duckhnter83]

As you all can probably tell I'm new to the modified and am trying to learn as much as possible. I bought an old dirt works 2 link and I'm running it as a sport mod. I bought this off a guy who was pretty new at the game himself.My question comes to I recently bought a caster camber gauge and checked them I run a 3/8 mile high banked track and the caster is set at +6 1/4 on the left and +12 on the right. I followed the directions that came with my caster camber gauge to measure it. Are these set to high? Dirt works says it should be 1 1/2 lf and 4 rf. What are the benefits or disadvantages of having it set so high? Also camber is set +2 on left and -3 on right does this sound about right?

[johnny v]

As you all can probably tell I'm new to the modified and am trying to learn as much as possible. I bought an old dirt works 2 link and I'm running it as a sport mod. I bought this off a guy who was pretty new at the game himself.My question comes to I recently bought a caster camber gauge and checked them I run a 3/8 mile high banked track and the caster is set at +6 1/4 on the left and +12 on the right. I followed the directions that came with my caster camber gauge to measure it. Are these set to high? Dirt works says it should be 1 1/2 lf and 4 rf. What are the benefits or disadvantages of having it set so high? Also camber is set +2 on left and -3 on right does this sound about right?

I think your either measuring wrong or having some issues..... Camber is close , the newer theory is a little more... say 4.5 + LF, 5.25 - RF.... but that is a ton of caster..... you should run somewhere around +2.5 LF, +5.5 RF..... driver feel is more what you base caster and caster split on...... you are turning the wheels 20* , resetting the 0 bubble, and then turning it past straight and then turning 20* more and taking the reading, Right?

[dirttrackrocker]

I agree, either you are reading it wrong or you have some problems. Your split seems close, thats why I am thinking you are doing something wrong. I run mine +6 on RF and +1 on LF

[Duckhnter83]

I drove the car onto the turn plates attached my gauge to the hub leveled the gauge with the small vial on end turned the wheel 20* so the front of the tire was facing out leveled the gauge with the little vial. I then zeroed the middle vial by turning the knob. Then I turned the car 20* back the other way the front of the tire in leveled the gauge with the little vial and read my caster. Does that sound right? I think the guy who owned it before me adjusted it with this much caster

[dirttrackrocker]

Thats how you do it. That is a TON of caster, Try getting your RF around 5 or 6 and LF around 1 or 2

[Duckhnter83]

Is there any benefit or disadvantages to having it set that high? What kinda changes in driving characteristics will I see by changing it lower to like 1-2 lf 5-6 rf?

[setup479point2]

A quick check to see if your gauge is reading right , look straight down on each upper ball joint , at +5 caster lower ball joint is about 3/4" ahead of upper ball joint( right side ) , at +2 caster lower is about 1/4" ahead of upper ( left ). This is also a good way to check if things got bent at the track. My typical numbers LF caster + 1 1/2 to +3 , camber +2 1/2 to +4 , RF caster +4 to +7 , camber -5 to -6 1/2 , toe 3/8" to 1/2" out.

[dirttrackrocker]

A quick check to see if your gauge is reading right , look straight down on each upper ball joint , at +5 caster lower ball joint is about 3/4" ahead of upper ball joint( right side ) , at +2 caster lower is about 1/4" ahead of upper ( left ). This is also a good way to check if things got bent at the track. My typical numbers LF caster + 1 1/2 to +3 , camber +2 1/2 to +4 , RF caster +4 to +7 , camber -5 to -6 1/2 , toe 3/8" to 1/2" out.

How are guys getting that much negative camber without the upper A arm hitting the shock??

[racinjj]

How are guys getting that much negative camber without the upper A arm hitting the shock??

You have to work with your shock mounts and a-arms to get clearance with high cambers on the right front. I build my cars so I can have up to -8* of camber in the RF and still clear the shock through full travel.

[HEAVY DUTY]

I would assume that you have pinto spindles. The machined surface where the brake caliper bracket bolts is parallel with the ball joint centerline. You can check the caster with a straight edge and an angle finder off of that machined surface. Just check with the wheels straight, you dont have to turn them. You can check the caster in about a minute on both sides this way. You can check the camber off the back side of the brake rotor.

[dirttrackrocker]

I would assume that you have pinto spindles. The machined surface where the brake caliper bracket bolts is parallel with the ball joint centerline. You can check the caster with a straight edge and an angle finder off of that machined surface. Just check with the wheels straight, you dont have to turn them. You can check the caster in about a minute on both sides this way. You can check the camber off the back side of the brake rotor.

I never knew this.. Good to know

[Duckhnter83]

I would assume that you have pinto spindles. The machined surface where the brake caliper bracket bolts is parallel with the ball joint centerline. You can check the caster with a straight edge and an angle finder off of that machined surface. Just check with the wheels straight, you dont have to turn them. You can check the caster in about a minute on both sides this way. You can check the camber off the back side of the brake rotor.

So your saying my 130 dollar caster camber gauge was a waste of money! Dang I wish I would of known that trick before I bought it. I appreciate all the good info!

[racinjj]

Your caster/camber gauge is easier and more accurate, I would recommend using your gauge over anything else.

[setup479point2]

Yes I do recommend using a gauge . I just gave him a rough way of checking if his gauge was accurate. As far as clearance on RF I use the longest lower that fits.