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On the left rear of a 4 link modified running a 200# spring on a eliminator on the back (rear of the birdcage) and a 9" stroke 40-40 valve shock mounted in front of the b/c. What would happen if it was setup like a late model with shock and spring on a coil over kit in the rear and a dummy shock in front?
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It basicly takes the shock out of the equation. Tried that years ago. Won't do it again. The car would jump on the bars so fast that the LR tire would be pulled off the track. Even in the dry. Because of the indexing of the LR birdcage, the shaft velocity slows down as the mounts are extending from each other. Most shocks have less dampening at slower shaft speeds.Bill W. and Dr. Bob......who could have known. -
are you a GREAT trail braker? If so then you will be ok. If not it's likely you will hit the wall when you let out of the gas. I think you run devils bowl if i remember correctly... I dont think it's need on a place that fast/hammer down. Some use it when its blowing dust but very few are good enough trail brakers to run it successfully.Originally posted by LateModel B23 View PostComment
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Devils Bowl is correct. I think the car is just to soft on the LR and too stiff on the RF.
Always looking for opions from others.Comment
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If you need drive but need it to turn from the middle off,first the 40/40 needs to go, an 8c 2r shock is what alot of people run,and I don't know your front stub or springs are but generally we have on the slick 650 LF 700 RF
5-c 3r LF shock
14r 2c RF
shock
this is with a 5th coil car, give us some more info and you will get plenty of answers.Also we run a 250 or 275 in the LR.Comment
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09 Shaw, Chevelle stub. With pull bar.Comment
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i think getting the compression up between 7-9 would help the soft feeling on the LRComment
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