shaw help

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dirtracr33
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2007
    • 278

    #1

    shaw help

    650 across front
    175 225 rear
    4 3-5
    8-2 4
    jbar center of pinion, 6 1/2 inches rake
    upper bars per shaw, 4 1/4 inch drop
    right lower bottom hole, left bottom second hole down
    700/2000 p/b spring, we do run 90/10
    52 left, 57 rear...anywhere from 20-60 lr w/o driver

    car actually hasn't been good this year, tacky or slick, was a good car, track recently switched to all "a" tires and we've s@cked ever since....
    it's been tight in middle off throttle in trafffic. it's also had nights of going good till halfway thru race and then lose all side and forward bite and get passed back by cars i passed...

    this last race had good heat in lr but rr was in fire...i'm to the point of pulling a bloomquist and just start experimenting...and thoughts on going stiffer lf than rf or vice versa..thanks for any input..
    Last edited by dirtracr33; 08-11-2013, 07:07 PM.
    powerslave
  • dukesracin
    Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 50

    #2
    ran 600 across the front and 200 across the rear last year, car was good all around
    this year been playing with 650lf 600rf 200-16"lr and 225-13" rr with a chain on left and right, car has been wicked fast. I like the way it stays just tight enough to drive in traffic, its been a rocket from the middle off.
    otherwise your setup and mine are very similar, not sure I have been on that much rake in j bar, mine is per Shaw book setting as far as height its 5 1/4" from bottom of frame up the 2" box tube.

    Comment

    • hockey3266
      Member
      • Dec 2010
      • 65

      #3
      When you say 4 1/4 drop...Are you measuring from the axle to the frame when your LR is jacked up in front of the wheel?

      Comment

      • dirtracr33
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2007
        • 278

        #4
        dukes, what is the reasoning w/ a 13" rr spirng opposed to a 16......hockey we measure from top of axle tube to bottom of top frame rail...11 inch at ride height, 15 1/4 to when chain gets tight - 4 1/4 drop...thx for the input
        powerslave

        Comment

        • dukesracin
          Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 50

          #5
          Originally posted by dirtracr33 View Post
          dukes, what is the reasoning w/ a 13" rr spirng opposed to a 16......hockey we measure from top of axle tube to bottom of top frame rail...11 inch at ride height, 15 1/4 to when chain gets tight - 4 1/4 drop...thx for the input
          13" spring changed the stability on entry. We had a 16" rr and now it feels like it gets more on top of the spring and is more stable when entering the turn on the 13" vs. the 16"

          Also make sure your lr shock and rf shock can support that drop. We have an 04' shaw and I had to use a 1" lr shock extension as well as move the rf shock mount up to allow that drop at LR to work. We were bumping the rf shock before we moved it up to allow more travel.

          Comment

          • hockey3266
            Member
            • Dec 2010
            • 65

            #6
            On a shaw car you never eat to run less then 15 7/8 with the chain tight. We have 2 shaw cars and run ours at 16 1/8 your losing a major amount of drive and side bite just in that chain. Also that should fix your tight issue off the corner as well!!! By making the chain that short your limiting how much steer is in the car which is causing you to loose drive and help the car drive off the corner.

            Comment

            • dirtracr33
              Senior Member
              • Jul 2007
              • 278

              #7
              hockey - we're not really tight off, it's more of a tight in the middle especially in traffic, doesn't pivot/turn in middle...but w/ that said bout halfway thru feature we start to lose side and forward bite....i know stagger might help w/ that but we've been falling off thru the race so i've been limiting my stagger..

              we've never ran that much drop on lr, w/ the added steer will it kill forward bite or should i lead the rr a bit to take some steer out but still keep that bar angle/drop.....thanks for the input guys

              dukes - only reason i ask is when we ran a 13, it separated quite a bit off the spring..so on entry it was dropping off the bars pretty far before hitting the spring, i guess that would be where running a chain on rr would help? thanks
              Last edited by dirtracr33; 08-13-2013, 04:57 PM.
              powerslave

              Comment

              • dukesracin
                Member
                • Jun 2010
                • 50

                #8
                Originally posted by dirtracr33 View Post
                hockey - we're not really tight off, it's more of a tight in the middle especially in traffic, doesn't pivot/turn in middle...but w/ that said bout halfway thru feature we start to lose side and forward bite....i know stagger might help w/ that but we've been falling off thru the race so i've been limiting my stagger..

                we've never ran that much drop on lr, w/ the added steer will it kill forward bite or should i lead the rr a bit to take some steer out but still keep that bar angle/drop.....thanks for the input guys

                dukes - only reason i ask is when we ran a 13, it separated quite a bit off the spring..so on entry it was dropping off the bars pretty far before hitting the spring, i guess that would be where running a chain on rr would help? thanks
                the chain on RR was magic, but i run about 1" slack until it slicks way off then i run 0 slack. but my track is a wide sweeping turn where the car is basically turned the whole time. on a long straightway tight turn we dont run the chain up RR

                Comment

                Working...
                X