Just wondering if ppl have tried it and if u have had any luck also wondering how the pedal feel was?
Plastic brake line?
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Have u have very many problems with it blowing or rocks hitting it and busting it? Seen some new quality cars with it this year and we have thought about using it
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Its light, its cheap and easy to work with but if you have to weld around it you must move it, it expands when you get on the binders causing a spongier pedal and yes it could bust from a rock.. Willwood rep will ask you if you have heard of it leaking behind someones fridge running an ice maker,if you cant trust it there can you trust running off into the corner on a big halfmile with your life possibly depending on it??? I would run steel buy a decent tubing bender and keep all you lines running down hill toward the caliper from master limit any loops,or tight bends or upward angles cause that will also cause a spongy hard to bleed system.. Its pretty easy to buy a couple t's and most chassis builders tell you what length lines you need so theres no need to flare just buy different lengths and start playing youll b much happier..
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If your car catches on fire, its going to be pretty hard to get it stopped and get out with your brake lines melted.
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I have been running it for years now. Never had any problems. I am not stupid enough to weld near it either.
Best part is its clear. You can see problems early and fix them before they cause problems on the track. We had a bleeder go bad last season. It was not leaking under pressure but would let small amounts of air in. The car chief spotted it while doing a walk around.
I have also had an engine expire in a ball of flame. It did blister the lines but non of them burst or leaked. You have to get them really hot and really fast for that to happen.My sarcasm is a pre-emptive strike to your stupidity!!
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This is a no brainer to me steel all the way it is not that hard to run steel lines.I have a friend who does lots of cars he just buys one of the brake line kits he will have to buy a couple of lines to finish. Me I buy it in rolls cut and flare my own lines after helping him do some I think his way might be easier.
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If you run it correctly it will last a few years and not have issues. I have installed in on asphalt and dirt cars since the mid to late 90's. It takes about 1 minute to make an at the track repair in the line that would require a new steel line. If you run it correctly fire is not an issue. This same product is used on most sprint cars, Indy, Indy lite, Mazda series and road race cars all over the world and it is the EXACT same tubing that is in the 8-12 inch lines that have the stainless braid over them that go from your calipers to the chassis now and believe me that little braid is ONLY there for rock protection and offers zero insulation against fires! As far as welding next to it, it is plastic and it seems that it would be a no brainer not to weld around your brake or gas lines no matter what they are made of, I have seen weld spatter hit and make a hole in steel lines.
zHow many of you that say it is so easy running steel lines are using a correct angle double flairing tool for the fittings you are using???? Now how many of you have no idea what a double flairing tool is and are just using a regular tubing cutter and flairing tool? I would much rather have correctly run plastic than steel that is not run correctly and waiting to crack and fail.Last edited by Egoracing; 02-21-2011, 07:58 PM.
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i have used it for years also moved if it from one car to another has been in use for 5 years on this car and another had to slice a spot last year due to rubbed hole in line the kits you by have extra fittings and splices in it just carry with you to track can repair in min. i found my leak at home doing weekly inspection spliced and bleed no problem always make sure its routed on back of tubing away from flying rocks and parts
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