Ok everyone I think this is a topic that should be touched as far as what open motor guys do for pull bar vs the crate guys. There is a difference and would like more input from you the racers as to what you like and why. ThanksRoyceRRR Products
Pull Bars: Then vs Now & Open Vs Crate Tech
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Tell us! A pullbar isn't the best choice for a suspension with a fair amount of dynamic wheelbase change.Modern Day Spec Wedge Racing
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Pierce Uses a Lift Bar with a Decel Biscuit and one way Pull bar with a 90/10 option. But no sprung lift bar/shock combo on their cars, seems to be a little lacking because the Pull bar is only around 18" but we run against some really strong Shaw Lift arm cars
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Most of the guys I know running a Crate have a bushing bar. I picked up a few cheap pull bars over the winter and plan on trying them all over the course of the season. I ran a BSB bushing bar all last year. And that's what I'm going to start the season on. And I run open engines.
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So are you experimenting with different bars? Please let us know what bars you will be using. Also, what style bsb bar did you use and the combo you ran along with life span?Originally posted by MM90 View PostMost of the guys I know running a Crate have a bushing bar. I picked up a few cheap pull bars over the winter and plan on trying them all over the course of the season. I ran a BSB bushing bar all last year. And that's what I'm going to start the season on. And I run open engines.Last edited by RRR_Products; 02-18-2014, 11:42 AM.
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BSB only makes one bushing bar. Gonna start the season with a Blue/Red bushing. Picked up a brand new Quick Car double bushing with 2 yellow bushings. Got a used PRC or PRP spring bushing bar but I don't know when I'm gonna try it and with what spring along with the bushings or no bushings and just straight spring. And I have an old Afco one way spring bar with a progressive spring that I haven't run on this car yet. Gonna be on two different tires during the season IMCA and NON Stamped Hoosier G-60 too. And a new engine combo so I have a lot of variables that changed from last season.
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Just a thought on the 2 bushing quick car. The stack is short so don't expect a long life span out of the bushings. That's something I've seen end a race early for some. What are you running for motor? We've been seeing less travel is helping with the crate guys due to the lack of horsepower and energy needing to be absorbed going to the tires.Originally posted by MM90 View PostBSB only makes one bushing bar. Gonna start the season with a Blue/Red bushing. Picked up a brand new Quick Car double bushing with 2 yellow bushings. Got a used PRC or PRP spring bushing bar but I don't know when I'm gonna try it and with what spring along with the bushings or no bushings and just straight spring. And I have an old Afco one way spring bar with a progressive spring that I haven't run on this car yet. Gonna be on two different tires during the season IMCA and NON Stamped Hoosier G-60 too. And a new engine combo so I have a lot of variables that changed from last season.
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Has anybody experimented with a solid bar instead of a pull bar when running a crate?
You would loose the brake bushing side when going to a solid bar but I question how much difference that will really make.
The only thing a spring or bushing in a pull bar does is absorb torque so that the driver doesn't have to be quite as careful with the throttle pedal. The supposed "improved traction" when putting a spring or bushing in a pull bar is not real. The driver may think there is more traction because he can hit the throttle pedal harder but in all actuality the spring is just absorbing some of that torque instead of it being applied to the tires. This is why you see a lot of widget pull bars, springs, bushings, etc. and any if not all of them have won races. The pull bar spring rate or bushing stiffness is all about making the driver comfortable. Once you find something the driver likes quit spending your money on something that will not make you any faster than you already are.
I like very stiff pull bar springs so I plan to try a solid bar in my car with a lower HP open motor, especially on a heavy track but I'm going to try it in the slick also.
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This is why I started this thread. Ive noticed with the pull bars guys are having more success with .5"-1" of travedl with crates. With an open motor 1" and up because of the power needing to be absorbed as it will be tougher to be smoother with a lot more power under your right foot. I hadn't seen this talked about much. The drivers I have spoken with running crates have tried solid but still would like just a small amount of energy absorbed. It inevitably is a mechanical traction aid. Traction control helps even the best drivers.Originally posted by mod71m View PostHas anybody experimented with a solid bar instead of a pull bar when running a crate? You would loose the brake bushing side when going to a solid bar but I question how much difference that will really make. The only thing a spring or bushing in a pull bar does is absorb torque so that the driver doesn't have to be quite as careful with the throttle pedal. The supposed "improved traction" when putting a spring or bushing in a pull bar is not real. The driver may think there is more traction because he can hit the throttle pedal harder but in all actuality the spring is just absorbing some of that torque instead of it being applied to the tires. This is why you see a lot of widget pull bars, springs, bushings, etc. and any if not all of them have won races. The pull bar spring rate or bushing stiffness is all about making the driver comfortable. Once you find something the driver likes quit spending your money on something that will not make you any faster than you already are. I like very stiff pull bar springs so I plan to try a solid bar in my car with a lower HP open motor, especially on a heavy track but I'm going to try it in the slick also.
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Its not the length that determines the rate it would be location above centerline of axle, tire, engine, and angle. The length will determine where the car is unloaded and loaded at chassis mount.Originally posted by MM90 View PostLength also affects what spring rate to run in a pull bar, the trend seems to be now for chassis to have shorter pull bars. Mine is around 30-31" so what may work for one driver/car may not work on a different car.
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