Trying to understand what is really happening with a chain limiter. Not doubting that it works, just do not really understand. Why doesn't the limiter lift LR off the track more than helping traction? Is there a good article about this or can someone explain, very simply so I can grasp the concept. Thanks for helping an old man, whose mind isn't as sharp as it once was, understand what is going on.
How does a chain limiter work?
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Mainly it controls the rear steer and stops the drop at the same place regardless of the bar angle changes . Too much drop equals too much steer. Too much drop also creates a fulcrum point that lifts the left front off the racetrack too much for the car to steer. Too much lift also makes it hard to enter the corner. Everything that goes up must come down. Something is going to stop it at some point, whether it is a shock topping out, or the driveshaft bottoming, or a hiem joint binding somewhere ( none of which is good)
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Why doesn't the limiter lift LR off the track more than helping traction?
Because the bars are pushing up on the chassis the same amount the the tire is pushing down. Gravity is pushing both down at the same time.
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On the same subject, my car doesn't have a chain but instead has a cone bump stop on a bracket welded to underrail and a bracket on tube that it hits. What is the pros and cons of this setup? Should I replace with chain(I know the setup I now have is sort of old school) Also, is there a chain kit that works better than others that I can buy? Afco, Wehr's, etc.
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Loose where? Some set the chain where the top bar at full drop is 45 degrees. That will put you close most of the time if you don't have chassis builder's recommendation. Best of luck.
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It could be if its got too much rear steer in it. It does sound like a drive issue though. Give some data like springs, bar angles, pull bar angle, spring or biscuit, stuff like that and see if someone can't help you. Is the rear end even up? Entry is good and thru the middle? Best of luck.
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The chain keeps the coil loaded. Once the LR coil becomes unloaded, the traction is dead. Also, there is no suspension travel to compensate for bumps on the track surface.Find me on Facebook: Impetus Dirt Racing Technologies
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You sir, are incorrect. It is impossible to have equal loading on the wheels without a LR spring. Unloaded coil means unequal loading 99% of the time. The more load that is applied to a wheel, the traction goes in a decreasing rate. MORE LOAD equals LESS TRACTION. We want equal loading of each wheel for optimum traction capabilities. You have to balance the set up. Use all 4 wheels of the race car. You will be faster and more consistent.Originally posted by stock car driverThe chain keeps the birdcage from over index or shock pull apart. u can be on the bars with no lr spring in the car and have plenty of tractionLast edited by Anonymous24; 07-06-2014, 12:50 AM.Find me on Facebook: Impetus Dirt Racing Technologies
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Agree, unless you are running under a 175, and/or with alot of LR(100+pds) and/or the chain is shorter than 4inches of travel. Car i drove for a guy had 3 1/2inches of lr travel and still got to 45 degrees and still had the amount of trail most the cars end up with.Originally posted by stock car driverThe chain keeps the birdcage from over index or shock pull apart. u can be on the bars with no lr spring in the car and have plenty of traction
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Sorry guys I was away for the weekend, at ride height the Lr upper is 30 degrees and the Lr lower is 5 degrees. at full hike the rearend has 5" of travel and the upper is at 50 degrees, the spring still has tension on it at 50 degrees.
Rr the upper is 17 degrees and the lower is level at ride height.Last edited by newguy; 07-10-2014, 01:28 AM.
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Usually if I see any gap on a cars lr spring at full hike it's because they're running over 4.5" lr drop with no indexing. I personally will not unload the lr spring and always run a 175 on any car I touch. The car is more consistent in my opinion loaded especially for a driver that isn't as smooth as others.
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