RF tie down shock?

[missile07]

After trying a tie down shock on the RF driver complains that the car is spinning coming out of the turns in tack & slick. Took the shock back hoping something was wrong with it and it checked out fine. Put a straight 45/45 Bilstein shock on and driver says it's much better.

Would the problem be driving style? Running on a very banked high momentum track and car is a tad tight on entry

Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations?

[7uptruckracer]

That tie down would hurt drive off, BUT tie down doesn't tell you much there are a lot of factors that can make a tie down shock you can run lower rebound but no bleed or higher rebound and some bleed and accomplish the same thing but it can allow the car to act totally different. You would need some dyno that shows your zero point or some build info on the shock itself.

[save the racers]

Its not letting weight transfer back to the LR

[missile07]

I will try and look at the build sheets tonight... this is the third night we have tried this shock. Both on imca and ump tires and same effect at two different tracks. Driver initially said something was wrong with car and we chased it until we changed shocks. So we tried it again on UMP tires and same effect...spinning.

Save the racers...by not letting weight transfer back would this mean the car is getting over too quick on the RF or holding it too much on the RF .

Driver is not an aggressive driver but really smooth on and off throttle...RF shock suggestions?

[save the racers]

Holding it over too much. Not sure how much a "tie down" you have, but take some rebound out until you get some forward bite back.

[missile07]

according to the shock builder we have the correct LR for it. actually have two he says will work with it....one has 150 lbs of pressure and other has 200. We have never played the shock game very much but we took a chance....I dont have the paperwork in front of me but shock comes back out (rebound) so slow at one point we thought it was a dead shock or bent.

[thinkstomuch]

my thoughts are if you use the tie down, take out some rear steer. when i switched i had to get used the the rear "hanging out" morejmo -

[JustAddDirt]

In my findings too much tie down will hurt traction off, unless you are playing with bump stops, or are running a stiff spring set-up.

You need a lot of rebound with a stiff spring to control the rate at which the spring rebounds. not enough and it will want to dribble like a basketball. too much and it will hold the RF down, and if you are already topped out of LR, it unloads LR tire.

It is a balancing act, on the LR and RF and it requires different combinations for different style tracks track to be good.

Car needs to trip on the RF on entry, and stay loaded on RF through corner for car to take corner speed at optimum level. ( at least mine does, when it is right, it is a really fast, when I miss it, well not so good)

[RRR_Products]

Get an internal adjustable and fine tune to what you need. Need more drive off? Take clicks out. Too tight on throttle put some in. Penske has a great shock for this.

[Matt49]

Having the adjust-ability really helps dial it in. As previously stated, the problem you're having is that the RF is holding all of the weight that would typically be transferred back to the LR which is where you get "drive".
I get the impression that the shock you are trying is not adjustable. If that's the case, I would increase RF spring rate until it starts to behave better or maybe increase your LR bite on the scales.

[missile07]

Don't believe we can use the adjustable kind...

JAD when you say "stiff" spring how stiff are you talking? On a 600 now.

thinksto much....we shortened the chain almost an inch from where we started to help on rear steer and had our bars just 1/4 inch back on the right side.

thanks for the replies guys....car is not horrible bad but love looking at different things to try to improve

[missile07]

thanks matt49.... those are things we can try without changing everything else too much and get back to our base if we need too.

Running 40-50 lbs of bite without driver right now.

[charcoal01]

Don't shorten your chain, you're just making the problem worse. Use the bars to take steer out, flatten the left lower. The car will usually get onto the right side faster so you generally have to start with more bite, which should help with the drive off.

Tie downs work best if you can dial the car in to where you are never really off the throttle competently, you'll be passing guys in and through the center more than you'll be drag racing coming off.if you're fast enough through the center it won't matter as much your drive off on exit.

[thinkstomuch]

missile07 - if you've adjusted the chain that much already then my suggestion isn't it. I would disagree with charcoal01 on doing the bars instead because imo that will hurt the driver were as the chain not so much.but if you've tried that then I second Justadddirt, split the difference on the two valving you mentioned and see where u stand

[drtrkr244]

If you have access to an adj. shock, I would experiment with it a few races, and then have your shock buy build you what you need.Be sure to put shock covers on both fronts, which you should be running anyways.