Are you breaking the swedge tube if that's is what your using?
center off no forward bite
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In your second post you say you add 3 rounds lr and car is good. Add four and it isn't. Maybe your driver is not changing his driving style for the slick track. You may try putting a 1/2 in spacer on the lr or drop air pressures to RF 12 RR 10 LF 10 LR 8. Or have him try backing the corner up when slick Only try one at a time. JMO
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lf 10 rf 14 lr 10 rr 13 on slick,, moved the lru down this weekend and added the 3 rounds but car seemed too tight. the car lays over hard on right front. just wondering if I might be collapsing rt front spring,, 450.. or am I over adjusting car? thinking about changing rt front shock.. any sujestions?
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You may be over adjusting the car because you are making more than one change at a time. Make one change only, if that doesn't work put it back where it was. If it helps somewhat, keep it and try the next change and so on. How much shock travel do you have left on the rf? 1/2 to 1 inch is good on dry slick. You said "car seemed tight". Was it, or once again is it the driver? Sounds like you had the car real close on your last post so just make a small change each time. Also was the track surface the same as the last time you raced? JMO
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A solid pullbar will cause this. If I understand correctly, you mean no rubber and no spring ? If its breaking a good heavy DOM pullbar tube you have something binding under load. You won't find a mod with a solid pullbar anywhere unless the rules require it. That's the reason sportmods require a solid pullbar is to limit traction.Originally posted by charlie115 View Postjust as soon as he picks up throttle rears spin.
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Your statement of no solid pull bars around would be incorrect. I've seen a couple guys with crates running them. One is a past champ as well.Originally posted by mudeater18 View PostA solid pullbar will cause this. If I understand correctly, you mean no rubber and no spring ? If its breaking a good heavy DOM pullbar tube you have something binding under load. You won't find a mod with a solid pullbar anywhere unless the rules require it. That's the reason sportmods require a solid pullbar is to limit traction.
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I stand corrected. I'll change my statement to 99.9% instead of all !Originally posted by DirtRacer9x View PostYour statement of no solid pull bars around would be incorrect. I've seen a couple guys with crates running them. One is a past champ as well.
Is he competing against open or A class mods and doing ok ? Is he on a 4 bar?
I guess there's always somebody running something different and doing OK with it, but it's definitely not the norm.
I still say if he is having trouble breaking the tires loose immediately under throttle, a solid pullbar is not what he needs. Just my opinion I guess.Last edited by mudeater18; 08-23-2014, 12:38 PM.
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The top 5 at this particular track were well known in IMCA and all had different set ups from springs to brake floaters, pull bars, motor offset and height coil over LR to split shock and slider RR. They were all different and all up front with completely different set ups. One guy running a 450 rf while another at 700 and running the same times. So there is no magic set up in my eyes but making what you have work is key. Heck 2 guys broke off the rf shock in the top 5 too.
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