Trial was only 1/8 I rechecked it.. But how much does it really affect having a stiffer lf spring? Does it give car Sidebite like they say
Soft front springs
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That stiff l/f spring stuff was started by Bob Bolles the editor of Circle track mag a few years back.The purpose is to get the front to take a set earlier to stop the front tires from scrubbing.With the higher speeds of an asphalt car and the wide nose pieces they have more down force to help entry.It works on dirt late model for the same reasons, plus they can move the a- arms and spindles to what ever they need.With a mod you have no down force and 1969 chevelle geometry.
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If you know what you're doing you can get some pretty good stuff going up front. We run 550-450 depending on track conditions on our RF.Originally posted by save the racers View PostThat stiff l/f spring stuff was started by Bob Bolles the editor of Circle track mag a few years back.The purpose is to get the front to take a set earlier to stop the front tires from scrubbing.With the higher speeds of an asphalt car and the wide nose pieces they have more down force to help entry.It works on dirt late model for the same reasons, plus they can move the a- arms and spindles to what ever they need.With a mod you have no down force and 1969 chevelle geometry.Curious that we spend more time congratulating people who have succeeded than encouraging people who have not.
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What bout left front spring? I know motor plays big part too.. And another how much should left rear spring be Angeles in at top or better have more straight up down bcs of motion
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He is on IMCA rules, the corner entry speed is down compared to a USRA car w/ AR tires and a spoiler. IMCA has just come back to our area in the last couple years and that's the big thing I've noticed, the IMCA cars are 10-15 MPH slower on entry with those rock tires, also not having a spoiler really hurts them.
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I'm not saying it wont work you can never completely rule something out, but we haven't had any luck in our mod with it to date, I'm just pointing out the difference in his car vs yours. Maybe you need a $2000 set of shocks to make it work I don't know. We tried it for a couple years and as soon as we went back to conventional the car was more manageable. I don't think you are that far off from what you have given us. Try even up on the springs or softer on the LF if its tight on entry.
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Shocks are jri by bob Harris and probly jst swap them 500 lf 550 rf. other question what bout lr spring angle
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More angle makes the spring/shock softer. So if you lean the RR sping in it's like putting a softer spring on. The LR spring I don't know if the same is true or not. A couple of years ago it seemed like a lot of mod chassis were leaning in the LR spring quite a bit. Now it looks like a lot have the LR spring near veritical. I welded in a new bracket for my LR spring this year to take some angle out of it. Not really sure if it made a huge difference but the car is working better.
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My rr is leaned in but my lr is straight up down didn't know if that might affect car making it bounce from bein so straight up and down or not.. I know on late model I had book said move springs to the left at top for slick
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If the RR is leaned in and closer to the center of the car you will need more shock to control the car. JRI should be able to get you dialed in give them a call about it.
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