I've always just set my static camber and caster at ride height and went, but I recently got to looking at pictures of my car during cornering and it looked like the Rf stood straight up and down when turning right during compression. I don't believe any thing is bent, but after checking car on stands with no springs and in compression the car looses 5.5 of camber from straight to full lock right. What are things I should look for
Question on camber
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It's on a chevelle, but it's on an 06 hughes that hasn't been updated. I never could seem to get the caster down where I wanted it. I'm debating on cutting the mounts off and putting a different style upper on it and starting over
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Originally posted by jamminjayman5 View PostI've always just set my static camber and caster at ride height and went, but I recently got to looking at pictures of my car during cornering and it looked like the Rf stood straight up and down when turning right during compression. I don't believe any thing is bent, but after checking car on stands with no springs and in compression the car looses 5.5 of camber from straight to full lock right. What are things I should look for
Isn't that kinda the point? You want the tire to be perpendicular to the track surface under normal corning forces. It sounds like it's pretty good to me.
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If you turn your RF a full 90 degrees outboard from straight the camber drops to the inclination angle of spindle + the positive caster you have (subtract for neg caster) = the amount positive of camber the tire has at full 90 degree of turn.
Meaning 7 degree spindle and 4 degree's of positive caster turned 90 degree will end up at 11 degrees positive camber regardless of how much negative camber you started with.
#Note this is assuming no caster gain during travel and not accounting for body roll left to right which will increase the neg camber total also.Last edited by billetbirdcage; 02-20-2016, 04:21 PM.
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