Overheating Problems!!???!!

[enduro racer]

Do you have a metric monte? If so, what is the part number, length, and diameter of hose you get from napa? Are the ones you got Dayco hoses and look like this:?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Hoses-Radiator/Brand/Dayco/Product-Line/Dayco-Flexible-Radiator-Hoses/?autoview=SKU&keyword=radiator+hose

The ones I got were either too long or too short. I may need to settle for something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-11010B/

My timing is at 36* total.

[rubbinsracin]

yes, we had a metric car. i couldnt tell you what lenght the hose is supposed to be as we havent had the car for going on 7 years now. you should be able to walk into napa and say i need a hose this long with the wire in it. if they dont have it, go down the street to the next retail store.

maybe try backing your timing down to 34* and see if that helps. are you running a locked out dizzy or springs? id recommend locking it out and setting your timing at 3000rpm?

if you just start the car up and let it idle, how hot does it get?

[sj valley dave]

When we ran a Super Stock, we ran a Shaw racing 180* thermostat to help keep heat in the engine as it would cool off too much. Ran the 4 blade GM fan. When we moved to the DLM world, the intake manifold from GM on a SB2.2 does not have the recessed area for a thermostat, so we just run it open and now run 3-4 rows of tape on the lower part of the radiator to help keep heat in the engine. One of the biggest things we found in the old days are the water pumps...Stock pumps let a lot of water bleed off the back of the impeller, where a racing pump forces the water through and you get better circulation through the system...I would go with good hoses like has been stated, a 4 blade GM fan, good shroud, 1/2 in, 1/2 out, not too long on your spacer, you get a lot of weight hanging out there, build the shroud accordingly, 20 lbs cap, make your air dams and you should be good...

[enduro racer]

I just called napa and a few other local auto part stores and they said there are no molded hoses like that. They say I'd have to go with a universal fit type. I already tried the dayco ones and I seem to need something right in the middle of 2 of their sizes. Would I be able to cut those to fit?

If I let it idle, it will go up to the about 180F (where the T-stat opens) and stay there.

[enduro racer]

Well I have a 19" GM fan on order and picked up a 19 7/8" and a 22" dayco flexible lower radiator hose with a wire in it last night. Rock auto says it should take the 22" but I want to be safe.

Would I be better off with no thermostat or a stewart racing thermostat?

[enduro racer]

Also, how do I squeeze a bigger radiator in the car? the radiator support will only hold one that is so big. I cannot use bars or do away with the stock from radiator support.

[Dirtrunner35]

Best 3 hours I ever spent, was to make like a air dam under the front bumper to the radiator. The sides went to the bumper and the top of the radiator sloped down along the bumper to the bottom. Yes this was on a stock car on dirt, but never had anymore holes in the front bumper. Came off the track at 200.

[dirty white boy]

what type transmission you running??? a automatic? with factory lines to fluid cooler in radiator?? if so,..run lines to a aftermarket trans cooler would help some,...few degrees of timing will get a chevy hot too!! a outa tune quadrabomb carb will cook a motor also!! you running stock exhast?? stoped up catalinic converter will build heat too,freeing up stock exhast will help a few degrees too!! also a radator hose can be cut if to long...good luck

[enduro racer]

I just tried putting my new GM 19" fan on and the bolt holes don't line up with my pump. They are the smaller bolt pattern. Can I just get a spacer that fits the hub in the center and then make slots out of the holes so it fits? The hub will keep it centered then. My water pump has fine threads in it. Are they just the typical 5/16" bolt fine thread?

Also, I'm going to tune my carb. What's the easiest way to do that on a q-jet? Anyone have a procedure? As I said, it kind of bogs for a second when the secondaries kick in.

I'll also take 2* of timing out.

[Moldymulldoon]

Get a 'loop type of wire crimp on end. Take one of the carb bolts out by the secondary top plate, put the loop under the bolt and bent it enough to open to top plate a bit. Loosen the spring on the top plate that keeps it closed. When you mash on the secondarys it goes lean for a bit. With the top plate (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)ed open a bit the needle 'jets are off the seat a bit, and with the spring backed off the top plate will open easier. It wont be as lean when the secondarys are opened up.
OR: adjust the needle seats at the cam part of the top plate.
Rough and dirt way of doing it, can't hurt to try that.

[enduro racer]

I just tried putting my new GM 19" fan on and the bolt holes don't line up with my pump. They are the smaller bolt pattern. Can I just get a spacer that fits the hub in the center and then make slots out of the holes so it fits? The hub will keep it centered then. My water pump has fine threads in it. Are they just the typical 5/16" bolt fine thread?

Also, I'm going to tune my carb. What's the easiest way to do that on a q-jet? Anyone have a procedure? As I said, it kind of bogs for a second when the secondaries kick in.

I'll also take 2* of timing out.

Anyone?????

[gadirtracer]

I just tried putting my new GM 19" fan on and the bolt holes don't line up with my pump. They are the smaller bolt pattern. Can I just get a spacer that fits the hub in the center and then make slots out of the holes so it fits? The hub will keep it centered then. My water pump has fine threads in it. Are they just the typical 5/16" bolt fine thread?

Also, I'm going to tune my carb. What's the easiest way to do that on a q-jet? Anyone have a procedure? As I said, it kind of bogs for a second when the secondaries kick in.

I'll also take 2* of timing out.

In you 1st post you say you have this water pump...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67264/?rtype=10

Just use the small bolt pattern. I wouldn't recommend slotting holes on the fan nor the spacer, get the right stuff the 1st time.
Almost every aftermarket performance water pump I've seen, had fine thread, 5/16" dual pattern holes. If yours don't, get a good quality pump that does.
Good luck on the Q-Jet, I've tried 'em, and every one would either bog or blow the tires off when the secondaries would come in. I know others that run them
and you couldn't give them a Holley.
I'd set the timing at 36* @ full advance and forget it. If your having detonation/pre-ignition issues, use the right octane fuel, a good carb. and the right heat range plug.

[enduro racer]

In you 1st post you say you have this water pump...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67264/?rtype=10

Just use the small bolt pattern. I wouldn't recommend slotting holes on the fan nor the spacer, get the right stuff the 1st time.
Almost every aftermarket performance water pump I've seen, had fine thread, 5/16" dual pattern holes. If yours don't, get a good quality pump that does.
Good luck on the Q-Jet, I've tried 'em, and every one would either bog or blow the tires off when the secondaries would come in. I know others that run them
and you couldn't give them a Holley.
I'd set the timing at 36* @ full advance and forget it. If your having detonation/pre-ignition issues, use the right octane fuel, a good carb. and the right heat range plug.

No, i have a procomp water pump, not a proform.

We can't run holleys. A guy I know tuned the carb for me, didn't seem too hard but the engine runs smooth as silk now. We'll see if the bog goes away.

I got the lower hose replace with one with a wire in it and I have a stewart thermostat coming in the mail. hopefully all this fixes it.

[rubbinsracin]

so how did everything turn out? or have you raced yet?

[JAMESGANGRACING]

i dont like the procomp water pump. if you look inside where it bolts to the block one side is almost closed off the way they are cast. i never used the one i bought, i use CAT pump, they work great .