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I realize the 3310 isn't the best carb, but its what I have so it has to work. I don't have the money for a new carb.
It has always ran rich at idle but didn't foul the plugs, until 2 weeks ago. And it has ran well at higher RPM's.
Engine is a 350 flat top, solid lifter .540 lift, MSD 6al ignition, running on gas. Timing was set at 36° but I dropped it to 34° (total advance) because it was too hard to start.
Carb #1 is my carb. It is a stock Holley 3310. I have tried it with the stock primary metering block and the plate in the secondaries. And I have tried it with billet metering blocks 71 primary and 75 secondary jets. Brand new 6.5 power valve and also tried a brand new 3.5.
Engine will not idle below 2000 rpm, and runs so rich it black fouls the plugs. Fumes burning your eyes in 10 seconds. Primary throttle plates are set so that .040 of the idle transfer slot is exposed. I have the secondaries open a little so it will flow enough air to idle. Instead of drilling a hole in the primary plates. If I turn the idle mixture screws all the way in, the engine does not shut off. If I look down inside the carb, I see no fuel. Nothing coming from the squirters and nothing coming from the boosters. So the fuel must be coming from under the throttle plates. Both power valves I used were brand new, and it never back fired through the carb.
Carb #2 is a Quick Fuel 3310 with billet plates. This is a good working carb, and came off a running engine. This is not my carb so I won't fiddle with it. This carb doesn't idle either. I did turn the mixture screws in and the engine quit. I reset the screws to where they were before and thats it.
The goal is to get Carb #1 working (my carb). Since Carb #2 made the engine quit, it shows me that there is a problem with Carb #1 and its not just a tuning problem. Any ideas?
It has always ran rich at idle but didn't foul the plugs, until 2 weeks ago. And it has ran well at higher RPM's.
Engine is a 350 flat top, solid lifter .540 lift, MSD 6al ignition, running on gas. Timing was set at 36° but I dropped it to 34° (total advance) because it was too hard to start.
Carb #1 is my carb. It is a stock Holley 3310. I have tried it with the stock primary metering block and the plate in the secondaries. And I have tried it with billet metering blocks 71 primary and 75 secondary jets. Brand new 6.5 power valve and also tried a brand new 3.5.
Engine will not idle below 2000 rpm, and runs so rich it black fouls the plugs. Fumes burning your eyes in 10 seconds. Primary throttle plates are set so that .040 of the idle transfer slot is exposed. I have the secondaries open a little so it will flow enough air to idle. Instead of drilling a hole in the primary plates. If I turn the idle mixture screws all the way in, the engine does not shut off. If I look down inside the carb, I see no fuel. Nothing coming from the squirters and nothing coming from the boosters. So the fuel must be coming from under the throttle plates. Both power valves I used were brand new, and it never back fired through the carb.
Carb #2 is a Quick Fuel 3310 with billet plates. This is a good working carb, and came off a running engine. This is not my carb so I won't fiddle with it. This carb doesn't idle either. I did turn the mixture screws in and the engine quit. I reset the screws to where they were before and thats it.
The goal is to get Carb #1 working (my carb). Since Carb #2 made the engine quit, it shows me that there is a problem with Carb #1 and its not just a tuning problem. Any ideas?
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