Originally posted by stock car driver
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Oiling issues!
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Wrong, Increasing pressure increases the temp when it dumps a high volume pump running less pressure will NOT dump and add air and temp. Read the articles, increased pressure equals more bypass and higher oil temps and a high volume running less pressure is cooler. PERIOD no other way around it. That last paragraph is talking about running a HIGH PRESSURE PUMP, just read the first sentence!!
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A high pressure pump is a STOCK pump with a higher pressure spring.. read your own articles and copy paste, lol. Your right its right there in the first sentence...Originally posted by Egoracing View PostWrong, Increasing pressure increases the temp when it dumps a high volume pump running less pressure will NOT dump and add air and temp. Read the articles, increased pressure equals more bypass and higher oil temps and a high volume running less pressure is cooler. PERIOD no other way around it. That last paragraph is talking about running a HIGH PRESSURE PUMP, just read the first sentence!!
It has a higher psi spring and DUMPS excess oil at a higher pressure than a hv would.
Its your own post and you cant understand it?
Here Ill copy paste it for you...
"High-pressure pumps are really stock-volume pumps with a stronger spring backing up the pressure relief valve. This means that an oil pump must raise its pressure to a higher level before the relief valve opens and dumps oil back into the pan."
fyi- Bill Hendren is the one who told me to run the m55a years ago. Which is a high pressure pump only...
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If this extra pressure is not needed, then the engine is using horsepower to pump oil to a peak pressure that is unnecessary--thus resulting in less power to the wheels. An additional loss is that windmilling the unneeded oil back into the pan aerates the oil and raises its temperature. A higher oil temperature can also affect the engine by raising the water temperature.
Seems you conveniently forgot the rest, the part that proves you wrong, that the added pressure if not needed adds heat and uses horsepower. A standard Chevy oiling system has adequate pressure with a stock pump BUT there is not enough volume for many racing applications. ANY pressure over 10 psi per 1000 RPM is doing NOTHING but using HP.
“You don’t really need a high volume pump if you are running stock bearing clearances. This will save power compared to a high volume pump. But if you are running a lot of rpms or are building an engine with looser clearances, then a high volume pump would be the best choice.â€
This is STRAIGHT from one of the articles posted above, not high pressure but high volume, earlier in the article the RPM for a stock pump is noted as 3000 RPM and anything over 5000 they reccomend a billet pump. The quote is from Mike Osterhaus of Melling Oil Pumps.
Rydjord pointed out that the use of a high-pressure pump would not affect the idle oil pressure. It would only show up at an rpm where the pump capacity overcomes the pressure relief valve. He said that although each engine might be different, the relief valve would probably start to open around the oil volume that could be used at 3,500 engine rpm. So, consider that too much oil pressure wastes horsepower.
I asked Osterhaus about using high-volume pumps in stock level racing engines. He responded, "The stock pump can take care of the bearings on most stock or near-stock engines. There are two good instances where a high-volume pump should be used. In a case where the bearing clearances have been opened up, allowing more oil to flow through, the higher-volume would be a benefit. This situation is not as prevalent now as in the past. Most engine builders seem to tighten up the bearing clearances now. The other situation is when an oil cooler, or some other restriction, is added to the oil system. Then, additional flow is needed."
Read more: http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar...#ixzz1TjuomiHuLast edited by Egoracing; 07-31-2011, 09:19 PM.
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Ego its not even fun being in a battle of witts with you as you are clearly un-armed.Originally posted by Egoracing View PostIf this extra pressure is not needed, then the engine is using horsepower to pump oil to a peak pressure that is unnecessary--thus resulting in less power to the wheels. An additional loss is that windmilling the unneeded oil back into the pan aerates the oil and raises its temperature. A higher oil temperature can also affect the engine by raising the water temperature.
Seems you conveniently forgot the rest, the part that proves you wrong,
that the added pressure if not needed adds heat and uses horsepower. A standard Chevy oiling system has adequate pressure with a stock pump BUT there is not enough volume for many racing applications. ANY pressure over 10 psi per 1000 RPM is doing NOTHING but using HP.[/url]
A m55a pump which is the melling high pressure pump is a oem pump the only difference is the spring pressure which makes it dump pressure later, lol..
Nothing above that you quoted proves me wrong on anything.. IF, huge IF here I realize. IF you actually raced and actually owned a motor at some time with a m55a pump you would know that the spring pressure it is set at provides you about 60 psi pressure with a common wt oil, lol..
oem stock pumps are about 45psi, lol.
Were all racing at 6000rpm or more even those of us with 436ci motors and a 4412 or 7448 carb...
AGAIN I speak from experience of having a race car with a race motor in it.
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Evidently you can not read as it clearly says high pressure pumps are not needed. Sorry for you inability to comprehend what is CLEARLY written. There are on-line classes and local programs for free that can help you with this issue, good luck and I hope you can conquer your issue.
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Like I said your unarmed, lol..Originally posted by Egoracing View PostEvidently you can not read as it clearly says high pressure pumps are not needed. Sorry for you inability to comprehend what is CLEARLY written. There are on-line classes and local programs for free that can help you with this issue, good luck and I hope you can conquer your issue.
Youve posted a dozen times that you need near 10 psi per 1000 rpm, stock doesnt do that. Stock non high psi spring is only 45 psi ish.
Not only that in your own postings youve said its bad to have oil dumping back in the pan from the by pass. A race motor thats built properly not all loose and like a worn out motor will build more psi than a oem build and be dumping oil in the pan thru the by pass almost all the time unless you put in the high pressure spring to hold it in the pump longer. This is all stuff you already said.
If you EVER had a race car you would know this as you would have looked at a gauge in the dash over the years for your oil psi, lol.Last edited by stock car driver; 08-01-2011, 07:54 AM.
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Have you got a pick up number for a circle track pan for the 10553 type pump? Ive got that pump sitting here and didnt use it for lack of a pick up to fit my pans.Originally posted by Living_Truth10 psi is an old rule of thumb, and not really relevant.
I'm betting you look for a lot more than 10psi at idle, and I've never seen more than 50-60 psi hot oil, WOT.
If you push for more, you are doing exactly what was stated: decreasing power and increasing oil temps. It's not necessary.
Further, a true 'race motor' would never use a M55 pump. Especially dirt track/off road racing. Can't imagine risking one of those big motors to save 50 bucks.

Note the lack of material on the neck of the M55 (left)
Anyone foolish enough to run one of these now-a-days is just asking for trouble.
m55 have never failed me though, so I didnt look for a pick up long.
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If you are hitting a solid pressure guess what, you are bypassing oil. If you use a high volume there are ways to limit pressure without dumping it. Oh and in case you can not figure it out, If you bypass at 40psi it is not going to build as much pressure or temperature or aerate the oil as bad as when you bypass at 60 psi but that is something that seems to be WAY beyond your comprehension....Originally posted by stock car driver View PostLike I said your unarmed, lol..
Youve posted a dozen times that you need near 10 psi per 1000 rpm, stock doesnt do that. Stock non high psi spring is only 45 psi ish.
Not only that in your own postings youve said its bad to have oil dumping back in the pan from the by pass. A race motor thats built properly not all loose and like a worn out motor will build more psi than a oem build and be dumping oil in the pan thru the by pass almost all the time unless you put in the high pressure spring to hold it in the pump longer. This is all stuff you already said.
If you EVER had a race car you would know this as you would have looked at a gauge in the dash over the years for your oil psi, lol.
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I did some searching it appears champ pans makes a pick up for those newer bolt on pumps.Originally posted by Living_Truth5/8" or 3/4" inlet?

Also need to know depth for pan you are describing.
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Ego youve lost it, just flat out lost it.Originally posted by Egoracing View PostIf you are hitting a solid pressure guess what, you are bypassing oil. If you use a high volume there are ways to limit pressure without dumping it. Oh and in case you can not figure it out, If you bypass at 40psi it is not going to build as much pressure or temperature or aerate the oil as bad as when you bypass at 60 psi but that is something that seems to be WAY beyond your comprehension....
Your still trying to argue about something you have NEVER Been involved with and your own post backs up exactly what Ive said.
I never said I hit a SET psi, you can make up all the b.s and try and read between the lines all you want your still a dum as moron with no knowledge to add on this subject and most others you try and put your fifty cents worth in on.
Go find a forum for keyboard commandos and leave this one to the actual RACERS we dont need your type her polluting the threads with your incorrect copy paste information.
Maybe theres a forum for donut eating or something your good at?
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