engine, carb,,,or some problem...???????/

[widcard22]

I have a 362 18* big bore short stroke with a bert......I can put car in low and pull out. holding firm pressure on clutch and car just wants to jump like it has to large of a cam just lope's along...It gets so bad ya have to let up on clutch ......It also does this when u accelrate till about 3000 rpm.....imust be missing something

What should timing be for dart18* heads? I have it set at 32* also it has willys 750 with it set on 76's front an rear..... the only thing diffrent from the car motor came from is carb, headers and msd box.o and the new bert....Thanks in advance!!!!!

[TeamGRT12x]

If it's doing this with a steady foot on the pedal, not jumping around, then you need to look at the carb and ignition system. Doubt it is the engine or transmission doing it. Idle the thing up and try to move it like that and see if it does it. More than likely, it's a carb issue. When was the last time it was tore apart? Once you get a bert/brinn bouncing like that, you have a tendency to keep doing it because the throttle pedal moves as you bounce. You might also try stiffer return springs before you really go ripping into the carburetor.

[widcard22]

Carb is new Yes it does it with a firm pedal,, Ive tryed it giving it a little fuel and with my foot not even on the fuel pedal.....still the same...... pulls out then goes prob a car length the starts lopeing.... How could i lean it out at idle? I think its to rich and loads up...... would going down in the adjusta jet affect how rich or lean the idle is ?

[TeamGRT12x]

Give it more gas on the throttle then, it's just trying to barely idle and pull the car. Are you trying this in the shop or at the track?

[widcard22]

This is at my home....Large level drive way........It does it if i try to hold a steady speed up to about 3000 then it clears up ..at any speed or rpm below 3000 it does it.....I have idle set at about 1500 .....

[sj valley dave]

You can always come off the clutch pedal and clean it out and then re engage the clutch...

[runyou-2]

Back-off the front accelerator pump and it will go away.

IF... the rear throttle plates are CLOSED all the way and are not hanging up.

AND...you are NOT sucking air* under the base of the carb.



*check this by spraying WD40 at the base gasket while idleing
& watch RPM's closely.If sucking air,the RPM will raise slightly.

[widcard22]

I will try that when I get off wrk this evening. .. can some tell me if going in on the idle screws leans or makes idled rich......

[perfconn]

In makes it leaner at idle

[powerslide]

Back-off the front accelerator pump and it will go away.

IF... the rear throttle plates are CLOSED all the way and are not hanging up.

AND...you are NOT sucking air* under the base of the carb.



*check this by spraying WD40 at the base gasket while idleing
& watch RPM's closely.If sucking air,the RPM will raise slightly.

My carb has done this a couple times i feel like it comes and goes but is present more often than not and it has done it on two diff motors.

If i back off the accelerator pump on the front will this effect the throttle response?

[runyou-2]

My carb has done this a couple times i feel like it comes and goes but is present more often than not and it has done it on two diff motors.

If i back off the accelerator pump on the front will this effect the throttle response?

No,it won't effect your throttle response because when you are racing you are turning higher rpm's and will have steady pressure on the pump arm anyway, so your reaction will not be affected, and the engine can take the blast of fuel at the higher rpm's without making the car lunge.

BUT,when you are at "idle" or "barely" pushing on the throttle just to move the car around,you don't need that "squirt" of fuel at low rpm's because ,if your foot moves an 1/8 of an inch,it causes a blast of fuel when running the acc. pump arm "tight" and causes the car to jump.Back it off so their is a little room before it hits the actual pump pin. Around .30-.40 usually does it.If not,go a little more.

[sj valley dave]

Not disagreeing, but we always ran a .005-.008 gap between arms and accelerator pump levers...was told this a long time ago by an "old timer" and just have always adjusted that way. Checked our carbs when they get back from Willy's and they were usually tighter....002 thou or so

[runyou-2]

Not disagreeing, but we always ran a .005-.008 gap between arms and accelerator pump levers...was told this a long time ago by an "old timer" and just have always adjusted that way. Checked our carbs when they get back from Willy's and they were usually tighter....002 thou or so

I can live with those #'s too.It really don't matter as long as it's not too tight.I like them set with a large gap just to make it easier to putt around since my big engine likes to lope real bad.Once you start racing you are on the pump anyway and it will pump the same amount any where it is set at but if it is ran "tight" (.002) you will run out of the pump action area anyway before you're on the floor so i would rather run loose to stay closer in the pumping area range to not stretch the diaphram so bad.

Now we're talkin "front acc. pump" not rear.

[andy16]

also by repeatedly bumping the accelerator pump your draining the bowl especially if your doing this under caution for a long time even in high gear. either be more sensitive with both pedals or back it off. otherwise under a long caution you might end up w a lean dead spot. jmo play w it some? usually driver pref.

[50j]

No fuel pump?