Max RPM in the shop ?

[Egoracing]

That's the closest thing I've heard to making any sense, but I'm still a little skeptical

I did find this googling :

"The pistons, rods, rings, valves, lifters, rockers, cam, oil pump, etc, etc. neither know nor care if the engine is in neutral or drive. All these parts see is loads based on RPM. 6000 in neutral is no different than 6000 in drive. The only difference is the RATE of RPM increase. This does not increase the structural loads.

The crank is the only part that sees different loads in neutral or drive, and the loads are HIGHER in drive."

Think of this, If you take a bowling ball and put it on your hand and spin it in a slow circle without moving your body from standing straight, the ball satays on your hand. NOW with it hanging straight down try to whip it into a circle as fast as you can without it coming off of your hand and without your body moving. The Bowling ball is the piston your arm is the connection rod and your body is the crankshaft. The rate of acceleration and decelleration is what will kill it. With it in gear the drive of the car slows the acceleration and decelleration, Without it in gear there is no control.

[SRXSRULE]

merc is 100% right. misfires under load can be fuel OR ignition. but i still wouldnt try to rev my car up in the shop to find it..lol. i'd head to my guys chassis dyno and throw the scope on it for $75 and have it solved within an hour.

So i'm not the only one that takes and ignition scope to the chassis dyno Nothing better then hooking up all 8 cylinders and having a scope in your lap watching the burn pattern while you make a pull.

Makes it real easy to spot a problem. Eric

[dirtdevil]

The original poster very seldom races, so take it for what it is worth with him. You can find more about him @ Midsouth Racing forum.

[stock car driver]

The original poster very seldom races, so take it for what it is worth with him. You can find more about him @ Midsouth Racing forum.

No need, its apparent hes here to ask a question then wants to answer it or find a argument, I dont see why guys like him and dyno cant just be satisfied talking to a wall.

[RacerX10]

Think of this, If you take a bowling ball and put it on your hand and spin it in a slow circle without moving your body from standing straight, the ball satays on your hand. NOW with it hanging straight down try to whip it into a circle as fast as you can without it coming off of your hand and without your body moving. The Bowling ball is the piston your arm is the connection rod and your body is the crankshaft. The rate of acceleration and decelleration is what will kill it. With it in gear the drive of the car slows the acceleration and decelleration, Without it in gear there is no control.

Now that makes perfect sense.

Thanks ego ! Not sure what all these other guys are on about in attacking me for asking a simple question

Wasn't looking for an argument, just somebody that knows wtf they are talking about.

[let-r-eat]

None of that makes any sense. You can easily get your engine up to operating temperature in the shop, and the MSD rev limiter will take care of any over-rev issue.

Glad your working with your equipment and not someone else's.

[RacerX10]

biggest load of bull$hit ive ever read next to dynomans posts anyway...

I agree, but it's all I could find via Google.

[4bangerhotrod]

i wouldnt be afraid to crank one up in the shop, as the rpm's go up the harmonic's smooth out so its actually easier on the engine. so i would start out taking it up to 6000 then take it up to 8000 and if it pulls good there i would take it on up to 10,000-10,500rpm just to make sure it will pull to that. after you run it up to around 10,000rpm run it up to about 9,800rpm and hold it there for 2-3min this really helps get everything seated. after you do this shut your engine off let it cool down and if it dont have a rod hanging out the side of the block. call your engine builder and tell him how amazing he is.

[DANNY]

Lmfao!!!!!