406 Build..Suggestions?

[clark]

New motor being built this year. Opinons? Suggestions? Open to any opinions.

Stock 400 2 bolt main 30 over
Scat forged 3.75 crank
Compstar 6in Forged H beam rods
SRP Dome top Pistons
Dart Iron Eagle 2.02/1.60 200 intake runners
"Stock" Quadrajet intake/ (been ported to open "square" top intake"
Holley 4412 500 cfm Carb
Comp Cam - 12-609-5
Pertronix HEI Race Distributor

We run a 3/8 mile ASPHALT oval street stock weighing 3000 lb, turning 6800-7000 every night. I know its that "A" word that most of you dont like but thats besides the fact lol. The last thing I want to be is out motored. Suggestions? Here are our track engine rules.

ENGINE, EXHAUST, CARBURETION, IGNITION
• Engine must be located in stock location. V-8 engines with factory stock cast iron heads, intake and exhaust manifolds.
• NO high-rise or bow-tie intakes. NO boat, truck, or tube-type exhaust manifolds allowed. NO cutting or altering of intake or exhaust manifolds. No high-performance parts even if stock O.E.M./NO Ford, GM, Mopar High Performance, aftermarket, or aluminum blocks or intake manifolds. Aftermarket heads ok, steel only! No aluminum! (No angle plug heads allowed). NO roller cams or lifters! Roller tips, roller rockers, and long slot rockers are optional.
• Stock starters or mini starters allowed. Any car push-started may start on tail of race.
• Stock 2-barrel carb only. Holley 4412 carb optional. NO Predator carbs. Chevy must have a Rochester carb, Ford: Motorcraft; Chrysler: Carter carb only. Choke and butterfly assembly may be removed. One-inch (maximum) carb spacer plate (with gaskets).
• Stock-style air cleaner (top & bottom), 3” high and 14” (maximum diameter) must be located under the hood.
• NO “air-boxes” or “Ram-Induction” air systems or any type of aftermarket air filters.
• Exhaust pipes must exit behind driver. Exhaust must be sealed-tight and measure 2” o.d. (max) for last 18” of each exhaust pipe.
• NO center dumps. NO equalizer pipes.
• Radiators must be located in stock position. Cooling system, or any part of it, may not run through driver’s compartment. The radiator overflow hose must exit onto the windshield. Anti-freeze coolants prohibited.
• Battery must be completely covered and securely fastened. Must be in a sealed box if located in driver’s compartment. NO battery can be located behind rear axle.
• NO engine oil or fuel cooling systems allowed.
• NO blowers, turbos, pressurized fuel systems or electric fuel pumps. Steel fuel lines or braided hose only. NO rubber fuel lines except at fuel source and fuel pump. NO fuel lines in driver’s compartment. Racing gasoline or standard pump gas only. NO alcohol or fuel additives of any kind are allowed.
• Stock point or HEI Ignition system only. NO aftermarket, dual point, or MSD ignition systems allowed

[Dirt Racer]

Ditch the SRP pistons in favor of Icon pistons. They have better features than the SRP stuff. IC609 part number if you want a price email me
Dirt_racer@comcast.net

[stockcar5]

go with srp professional pistons. MUCH better than the cheap icons. they are lighter and have a naiper second ring.

and fwiw im not trying to sell you anything. just going off of personal experience.

[usafracer]

I agree SPR is the way to go. I also like the Mahle pistons.

[clark]

SRP or Mahle will be the only route I go. After this year, never again will I go with the cheaper knock off option. There is a reason cheaper brands are just that, cheap. (See attatchments.)

[Dirt Racer]

Clark,
That looks like the cylinder wall broke before the piston, was the block sonic tested?

[Dirt Racer]

go with srp professional pistons. MUCH better than the cheap icons. they are lighter and have a naiper second ring.

and fwiw im not trying to sell you anything. just going off of personal experience.

Stockcar5,
Have you ever used the icon stuff? What makes them cheap.
The icon pistons are not cheap. They are 2618 material SRP is 4032. They double pin oilers, SRP not. They have lateral gas ports, SRP not. SRP pro series are decent but still not as good.

[clark]

Either way its toast. lol. Yeah it was. No I have never used them. If they are a reputable product, how much have you used them? Any body have any stories about them or the abuse they can or cannot handle?

[stockcar5]

Stockcar5,
Have you ever used the icon stuff? What makes them cheap.
The icon pistons are not cheap. They are 2618 material SRP is 4032. They double pin oilers, SRP not. They have lateral gas ports, SRP not. SRP pro series are decent but still not as good.

i bought a set and returned them. i was not impessed. they are good cheap piston for a claimer type build. they are very heavy, have thick outdated ring packs and the finish machining on them was subpar imo. they needed alot of work before installing. the srp pro's are ready to drop in.

[Dirt Racer]

Stockcar,
I don't know what you had but the icon pistons I'm referring to have metric rings 1.5 1.5 3.0 mm and the icon piston weighs 440 grams with a 9cc dome the SRP weighs 424 with a 4 cc dome. The Finish is excellent in my opinion. I have these in several mod engines and i have had absolutely no problems with these. What was the part number of what you had.

Clark,
I have these in several engines, work great. 395ci. Turning 8200. 400ci. Turning 8000 etc. 2 years no problems going on 3. with the options these pistons have its hard to beat them.

[clark]

Dirtracer- I do have to apologize. When I first read your post, for some off the wall reason all I could picture were Probe (somethingorother) pistons. I have heard good things about those pistons here and there. Anyone else have any word on Icon pistons?

[stockcar5]

they were a l/w 4.030 350 pistons 6 inch rod. they were heavy for a supposed to be l/w piston (400 grams) they did have gas ports but that seemed pointless with the thick ring pack (1.5 1.5 3mm).

the pistons i have now weight 70 grams less, have .043 ring pack gas ported and they are coated. like i said the icons are good street/claimer pistons, the srp pros are better, and if you want good stuff look to je, mahle pro series, cp ect..

[racinjason29]

everything you have is fine, engine components are really just personal preference kinda like oil or fuel! I will say this, your rules state, cast iron FACTORY heads only and no cutting on the intake, Im afraid that your Dart heads and intake will not pass

[fast_crew]

To Jason, alittle later in that section, It says aftermarket heads ok, Steel only.

Hey Clark, I responded to your post over on ST, something to add if you don't have the darts yet, look into the Bowtie Vortecs, (need a diff. intake though, may not fit rules.) they flow very well and have better chambers then the Darts. What ever you do for pistons make sure there Forgered, 4032 is alittle harder high silicone, and wear alittle better, the 2618's hold up to abuse alittle better. The Icon's arn't bad, as are JE,CP,Mahle,SRP Pro, Wiseco. Probe doesn't make a bad piston for the money either, Mark Oneil over at ST is the owner. Wiseco makes a very nice light weight piston w/thin ring pack comes with the rings, coated skirts, short pins, and gas ports. Don't let these piston companys fool you with there thin 1.5mm metric ring pack claims 1.5mm=.059" you miswell run 1/16" rings at .062" and save the money on there advertisement gimmicks. Look for something with a 1.2mm or .043 top ring, gas ports and use a napier second ring.

[clark]

Ok thanks for the help gentlemen. Heads..are these runners big enoug? Too big? Has anyone used the World Product Motown's? I had a set of the Sportsman II's on a 385 and liked them but since we're jumping up some ci's are these going to be big enough?