Compstar Crank and Rods?

[clark]

Anyone used any of their crankshafts or rods and liked them? Looking to turn 7k and don't want to have to worry at all. The Callies dragon Slayer is also an option if the time comes and the funding is there though. Just looing for thoughts on the Comstar products for now..

[MiddleMan]

I have them in both my 415's and have not had a problem turning 8k every weekend.

[HEAVY DUTY]

I have them in a 406 8200 no problem. Light weight crank 43 lbs I think

[DANNY]

I plan to run them in a 406 im building... Comet crank is the 42-43 lb one.

[dynoman14]

They are good quality pieces and 7,000 rpm should be no problem if you have them balanced properly and bearings fitted right.

You need to make sure you purchase them from a verified dealer or someone you trust as there was a post on either Speed or LT-1Tech about some cranks that were chinese knock offs in Compstar boxes. I have seen a couple posts on e-bay where the cranks are $100-150 cheaper than most sellers and I don't think that is possible unless someone is selling parts at a loss to get them gone.

[perfconn]

Dyno,
In case you didn't know,the Compstar stuff is Chinese forgings,just machined by Callies.

[Racer111]

Run in a 400 at 8200

[andy16]

crank n rods

my friend just bought a crank and rods from them and everything looked ok except the rod mains were .001 under from the factory. i had to use the HN-1 bearings on upper and lower side of rod i wasn happy w that being brand new and the clearances were still .0026 not the best and had to buy more bearings. prob will have to tighten up and re hone rods on next build wich im sure he wont be happy about. also there were metal "splinters" that needed massaging on the upper side of the rod bolt threads on the rod bolt hole not bolt. no big deal but was extra work. im not happy w them right now but this was only one case. i think there plenty strong but need extra attention. jmo?

[CNC BLOCKS]

my friend just bought a crank and rods from them and everything looked ok except the rod mains were .001 under from the factory. i had to use the HN bearings on upper and lower side of rod i wasn happy w that being brand new and the clearances were still .0026 not the best and had to buy more bearings. prob will have to tighten up and re hone rods on next build wich im sure he wont be happy about. also there were metal "splinters" that needed massaging on the upper side of the rod bolt threads no big deal but was extra work. im not happy w them right now but this was only one case. i think there plenty strong but need extra attention. jmo?

What is the factory size you are looking for??? What are you measuring your clearances with??? Hopefully its not a 10 cent bore gauge.

[andy16]

compstar

using a mitutoyo. its not a sunnen but imo is a quality guage and iv used them/been taught to use one. almost all my meas tools are mits? crank pin measured 2.097 rod w bearing torqued w extreme p lube at around 82 degrees abient .0045 bolt stretch around 80ftlbs w arp 2000 bolts was around 2.101 i measured .0038 to .004 w std bearings. went home came back next night measured again to be sure and was same. tried different brand bearing got same measurement .0038-.004. ordered coated clevite hn bearings to try and close up as much gap as possible. w hn shell on bottom std shell on top got .003-.0032. with hn shell on top and bottom i got .0026-.0028. acceptable in my book but being 100% brand new would have like to have seen .0022-.0024. i did not recheck w plastiguage but the oil pan isn on yet wouldn be a big deal to recheck if you think theres a problem . i know your reputable and more knowlegeable than me cnc and i respect your opinion?

[CNC BLOCKS]

using a mitutoyo. its not a sunnen but imo is a quality guage and iv used them/been taught to use one. almost all my meas tools are mits? crank pin measured 2.097 rod w bearing torqued w extreme p lube at around 82 degrees abient .0045 bolt stretch around 80ftlbs w arp 2000 bolts was around 2.101 i measured .0038 to .004 w std bearings. went home came back next night measured again to be sure and was same. tried different brand bearing got same measurement .0038-.004. ordered coated clevite hn bearings to try and close up as much gap as possible. w hn shell on bottom std shell on top got .003-.0032. with hn shell on top and bottom i got .0026-.0028. acceptable in my book but being 100% brand new would have like to have seen .0022-.0024. i did not recheck w plastiguage but the oil pan isn on yet wouldn be a big deal to recheck if you think theres a problem . i know your reputable and more knowlegeable than me cnc and i respect your opinion?

Using a ridgid finger bore gauge on bearing with eccentricty you not going to get an accurate reading, I know I have had guys check those type gauges against my sunnen gauges.

Ask the guys at Mahle/Clevite what they think is the more accurate gauge.

[fast_crew]

my friend just bought a crank and rods from them and everything looked ok except the rod mains were .001 under from the factory. i had to use the HN bearings on upper and lower side of rod i wasn happy w that being brand new and the clearances were still .0026 not the best and had to buy more bearings. prob will have to tighten up and re hone rods on next build wich im sure he wont be happy about. also there were metal "splinters" that needed massaging on the upper side of the rod bolt threads no big deal but was extra work. im not happy w them right now but this was only one case. i think there plenty strong but need extra attention. jmo?

The HN bearings are nothing more then the H series Narrow. Which replaced the H bearings that had a chamfer a few years ago. Did you mean to type something else? Nothing wrong with .0026, .0025 is most race engine builders goal for a SBC sized journal.

[andy16]

compstar

n meaning the .001 tighter bearing the opposite of the x bearing. i may be mistaken but i believe it was a n on the end of part number if i made a mistake meant the .001 tighter bearing. i will check w plastiguage tonight and upload a pic of it smashed and everyone will either agree or disagree. its not really a problem i know but the customer knows everything and was pissed i couldn use std bearings that he "ALREADY HAD" in his new crank ? if youve ever dealt w a guy who uses the phrase well i already got this do i have to ? then u know what im talkin about.

[perfconn]

N means they are simply narrow bearings.All the Clevite H series bearings are narrow.

[andy16]

compstar

thanks for the info. the part number was hn-1 for the bearings. and after finagling w this a few nights iv confirmed what cnc was saying about the rigid finger used for bearing measurement. back to backing w plastiguage vs solid finger the solid finger was infact about .008 larger than the plastiguage. the bearing must be too soft for the small radius on finger no matter how soft i tried to do it was always larger than the plastiguage . so i went back to half shells and used the plastiguage and set clearances. at a great .0022. so it wasn compstar it was my hard head. live and learn i guess. (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) that sunnen guage is nice but high$$ but i guess worth everypenny. put it on my xmas list.

question... whats the best way to remove a doweled rod cap installed in the motor? i dont think thw way i did it was the right way? there must be a more proffesional way?