Road Race Oil Pans

[Racer Roy]

Hello, everyone:
I know this is a circle track forum, but there are so many people who provide such valuble information on here, I am confident someone will have an opinion.
I am considering converting my old, outdated late model into a road racer.
I'm very early in this project, but it looks reasonably simple.
One big concern is oil control. Most cars I have seen are dry sump. I can't afford that right away, but I have not found a really good right turn wet sump pan, either.
Another option could be an accumulator. I have never used one - they are popular with the modifieds with the claim rule. How complicated are they to install and operate? Could one be incorporated with a remote filter and cooler?
I could easily ask many more questions, but I'll keep this post simple for now.
For the record, my engine is a simple 350 Chevy, bowtie heads, flat tappet cam, flat tops, 4150 650 four barrel.
I look forward to reading your opinions.

Thanks

RR

[DaveBauerSS6]

Run one on my outlaw figure 8 car after screwing with three pans that didn't work. Accusump 3 quart; install a shut off ball valve to capture the oil for start up. Oversize all the lines and minimal fittings, sweep fittings, anything to reduce restriction. It takes up room but works great and a good piece of mind.

[Racer Roy]

Thanks for the advice. If I can't scrounge a dry sump, I'll look into this setup.

Cheers

RR

[DaveBauerSS6]

Champ pans are the run on a lot of F8 cars.

[Hurst390]

I have mixed feelings about the accusump..I ran one for 5 years on a drag car...when all is well it's fine...but if you did lose oil pressure due to windage or lack of oil control in the sump..or for whatever reason...they will inject the 3 qts into the engine as designed...If you figure it out and shut it off all is great...but eventually the canister refills..and that means your filling the canister and not the engine...or atleast not full volume to the engine..and thats where the trouble comes into play IMO...
They are great for pre-lubing...but I removed mine and when I built my stock car engine...I decided to increase pan volume instead...In my Stock Car oil pan I increased the width by 1" and depth of the front and rear of the pan by 1" and that gives me 10 qt. capacity+1qt for the filter...I have an external pump(wetsump) and use a homemade swivel pick-up that swivels side to side...If your allowed an external pump this is something you might consider seeing how your road racing..I have some pics of mys set-up if your interested..but it's not for a chevy..but could be adapted to a chevy if the external pump is legal..
Regardless of the route you choose the more oil capacity you can get the better off you will be IMO..with a static sump...

[Racer Roy]

Thanks for the honesty, Hurst.
I have not read the new rules yet, but the old ones allow just about anything.
It will come down to budget.

Cheers
RR

[racer69]

I also have done some f8 racing. Even the world Championship in Indy. A lot of those guys like the C-line pans around here.

[Racer Roy]

Thanks for all the comments, they have been helpful.
I have been looking into going dry sump and it doesn't look like it would be as expensive as I thought.
I have been talking to a couple engine guys about what is required to convert an assembled engine to dry sump and have, predictably, got several different answers.
(I'll add I am a mechanic, have built all my own engines for years, but never a dry sump)
Aside from all the bolt on parts - pan, oil pump, etc, what needs to be done to the engine to get up and running? Is there a book available describing how to eliminate the stock type oil pump and install scavenge lines correctly? I really don't want to learn what I did wrong by diagnosing a blown engine.

Thanks again for the help

Cheers

R

[Racer Roy]

Seriously? I sure don't need boots to road race...

[powerslide]

Obviously the pan will have pickups in it. Usually one in the lifter valley, sometimes i see one in the valve cover. I bought a dry sump motor and converted it to wet sump. All i had to do basically was take a plug out of the rear main cap, purchase pan and pump and it was ready to go. This was a stock block that had the stock rear main so they just put a plug in it when they dry sumped it.
Perfcon has alot of experience setting these things up and has helped alot of racers on this forum get setup correctly

[Racer Roy]

That's great info, thanks a lot

Cheers
R