valve lash roller cam

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  • DaveBauerSS6
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 566

    #16
    Originally posted by dynoman14 View Post
    Man, both them Daves are about the sharpest spoons in the drawer.

    Once I have the cam profile off the Cam doctor I guess I could look at the profile myself and determine the lash spec, I didn't spend 3 years at Reed Cams as National Sales & Tech. Manager just for fun...as I recall I did a number of classes for race engine builders on cam design and lobe selection. Anyway, no biggie just another job on the list of many, I remember the friends and good times more than anything else, and let me tell you there were some good times at trade shows with the Reed bunch back in the day.

    Last time I checked Cam Doctor was accurate to .0001" and .001*, your degree wheel and dial indicator must be way better than mine. For cam lobe acceleration info I think you need a little more than a degree wheel, just my humble opinion.

    If need be I can have it adcoled in a day, and those measurements are out to .00001" / * but that takes a little longer as I have to ship it off. I get like 100 free a year and have never used more than about 50.

    As a bracket racer or whatever you guys race, I doubt either of you have had to work much with engines that run at sustained RPM limits of 9000 average 3-4 hours or, endurance efforts that average 7000-8000 for 12-24 hours. Rather than being any good I guess I must have just been lucky to have been in the right place and time to get the work I have gotten because I prolly don't know as much as either of you.

    Maybe next time I go to work on one of my Serdi Machines in an F-1 or MotoGP engine shop I'll drop your names in conversation and see if they have heard of either of you.

    BTW, Andy16 is one of the guys I took with me to PRI when we took Matt Bienemanns first show booth there and set it up for him. Matt paid cash / traded me a GNX for his first Serdi 100 and Andy was one of my best students in how to work on and operate a S-100. Prolly got 50+ machines in the Charlotte Area alone and Andy helped me sell a couple of them. Hell, probably 20 machines came off the S-100 I put in Jerry Hemmingsons' Race Engine Shop ( mostly Pro-Stock Drag Stuff ).

    Andy lives right there by Mike Jones, so I guess he can just run by there with the cam and see...
    Mark,,,,, Let me give you a analogy since we both have the knack of rambling. When I first started dirt racing a spring shop was recommended to me. I went to him and asked for some rear springs at this rate and asked for suggestions on my choice. The said he didn't use numbers and did it by feel. I'm sure there was more magic then he divulged, but I respectfully declined his help. Since then I have beat his car and I have been beaten by him.
    My point is there is no reason to chance someone looking at a profile and determining a lash spec. Bet you can get 5 cam grinders in a circle and they have their differences. Then ask each one and they would come up with different lash guesses. I still have some Reed cams running and when another major cam manufacture that you know Cam Doctored one reed cam, the cam was not the same as the cam card. Reed was out of business by then and now I have a person cutting my cams. For $350-$400 you can buy a brand new cam with the lash that the manufacturer intended it to be. I'm puzzled by the statement that you would guess at something this important and not recommend the purchase of a new one being the head of sales in a cam company??
    The cam is the most important/ cheapest component in the engine. Not something to be guessing with.
    Andy should take the cam to Jones and ask him for advice. Have him Doctor the cam and guess the lash or Mike just sell him a cam. Bet Mike sells a cam. I would buy one.

    BTW , The last 6 paragraphs have nothing to do with the topic. I think you meant knife in the drawer, but I understood it. You are missing out on some good bench time with Dave, don't short change yourself.
    Last edited by DaveBauerSS6; 11-21-2012, 09:38 PM.
    Gator Engineering

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    • sj valley dave
      Senior Member
      • May 2007
      • 1016

      #17
      Mark, now that you are being an a**, gloves off big guy...I'm sure I can talk to a few of my friends in the Top Fuel Hydro and Dragster world and they won't have a clue who the he** you are...Keep spouting your sh*t and make yourself feel good...Ya, Mr Know It All, I've worked on a Top Fuel team, Pro Stock bike, (Kawasaki) team and now a Super Dirt Late Model...You talked sh*t about a West Coast Supermodified, BS...I'm as old, if not older than you and maybe I'm not a phantom Serdi dealer, (I doubt you are) but I've been around just as many classes and as much racing as you...I just said that with a Cam Doctor sheet, a CAM GUY could tell a person what lash they need...I know Mike and he is good...Did not know that you were a cam expert also...my apology...Maybe you need to get the tool sharpner out for yourself...BTW, Dave Bauer has been in the game for many, many years and is not afraid to think outside the box...

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      • andy16
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2009
        • 310

        #18
        well im just gonna throw this out there ive been privileged to watch a few motors get dynoed some of them have set nhra records and NONE of them made the most power w the recomended cam degree or lash settings. i got to watch them do a cam degree sweep and a lash sweep and a timing sweep and a jet sweep. like two days of nothin but dynoing. i had my own work to do but i know thats what they were doing thats kinda why i was curious about the lash thing. i would have asked them but they would have said who cares about longevity set it to what makes the most power on dyno or lowest et and leave it but my pockets aint deep as theres.
        mark the cams in a motor and eventually it will be out and i would like to know what it is as the engine biulder did not give me a cam card i only know what its degreed to and that the lash was to be set at .018 hot on both.

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        • racin6mod
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2008
          • 2172

          #19
          if you pull the cam at some point in time it should have the mfg's name and art number on it and most likely a core number with that info you can get a cam card. some engine builders do gring that info off but that's you best shot. the .018 hot number seem loose to me but depending on many things that may be a safe number.

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