Alternator suggestions/advice for a DLM

[Kwaz-13]

I'm plan to try running an alternator this year. It'll be used in conjunction with an Optima battery and MSD 6AL, a standard 12v system. Is there a good brand and minimum amp output that you guys could recommend? Is there any advantage one wire vs multiwire, other than installation simplicity? Is it necessary to run a fuse/fusible link between the alt. and the battery?

Thanks!

[joedoozer]

I am running one this year too. I can post pictures in a few hours about how I mounted it, pulley choice, and belt size. Everyone at the track looks at me like I am nuts for running one. And I can't see a reason not to. It's simple, cheap, reliable (when the belt stays on haha) and there is no HP loss as a battery starts to die. It's a no brainer.

[joedoozer]

Ok here goes.

I run a triple pulley on the water pump and a double on the crank. The inside groove is strictly for the water pump. The second groove is crank to water pump and power steering. The 3 groove on the water pump is a 4 1/2" pulley and I use it just for the alternator.



I made a bracket to come straight off the water pump, and the bottom support bolt lines up with the bottom hole in the head.



Made a few plate gussets, and bolted it together so I could put a few tack welds on it.

[joedoozer]

Once I had it tacked together I mounted it with the spacer between the alternator and the head. This is the first time it was mounted with the spacer. I still needed to tweak it a little and add a few washer to get it spaced right, and cut the bolt shorter.

There is a little more than 1/2" difference between the 2 pulleys. So the alternator will be slightly under driven. I bought the alternator at Autozone for $29. Swung by my local junk yard and they gave me a junk alternator for free to use as a core. With this set up I run a 32" x 3/8" belt. It could be a an inch or 2 shorter, but that is all the parts store had at the time. I haven't made a top tension bar yet. Motor goes in this weekend, and I will build a bracket for it then.

[joedoozer]

I run a single wire set up. And then run a main battery wire to the battery side of the starter solenoid mounted on the firewall. There is a small draw on the battery running the single wire set up. I don't worry about it (even if it's wrong) because I shut the battery off every time I shut the car off.

[Kwaz-13]

Thanks for the replies. That looks real good, and now I have a pretty good idea what I need to do. From the pics, it looks like you're using the standard GM alternator. Is there a certain model that is already set up for a single wire, or do you have to fool with the diodes? I can't see spending the extra $$$ for the ones they sell from the racing outlets. Nothing like keeping it simple!

For the tension bracket, are you thinking threaded rod maybe with some heims, or more like the stock style steel bracket with a slot in it?

[joedoozer]

Yeah threaded rod with heims. Not 100% sure how I will do it though. The motor goes in the car tomorrow and when the power steering pump is mounted I will see if I can just shoot straight across to it. If not I will build a bracket. The hardest part was lining up the alternator, finding something to push against should be easy haha.

I used this alternator here.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...6_188941_4676_

I just ran a jumper to the main post. It does draw the battery when the car is off, but I just turn the battery off and problem solved. I did get the big pulley from Speedway motors, I didn't think over driving a $30 alternator was the best idea. So instead of it spinning at 10,000 RPM, it's probably closer to 5,200.

[Kwaz-13]

Sounds good! Thanks again for the info. I had not thought too much about final drive ratio, so I'm glad you mentioned that. I don't want to spin the guts out of it, haha!

[joedoozer]

The top adjusting rod was a piece of cake. I used a radius rod and went straight across to the other head, to the top bolt. It was the only one I could use because the power steering pump is mounted on that head.

I used a 2 inch spacer and a grade 8 bolt. So the radius rod was as straight as possible. There is a slight bend in the rod to clear the housing of the alternator. I am very happy with how it turned out.

I will post updates if I make any changes in the future. Different alternator, heat shields or whatever.

[pickel]

here is what i run.. the only thing is i made mine but worked great

http://pitstopusa.com/i-5057901-powermaster-ford-9-alternator-mount-kit-fits-ford-9-rear-ends.html

I also run all three wires ..
1 gauge
2 light ( it come on while you r racing and you know its not working)
3 main power..

[Egoracing]

WOW those have gone up. I believe I still have one that we made that will also hold the panhard bar, I would sell it for $250 and ship it to you!

[50j]

To me it makes sense to use one. I'd rather lose a small amount of power turning one than lose a lot if the ignition gets weak. JMO.