crate over heating need help

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  • perfconn
    Senior Member
    • May 2007
    • 3573

    #16
    Either that or get someone to run around the track in front of you with a water hose.Put the 1-1 pulleys and the 4 blade 19 inch GM fan on and race.

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    • bluemod
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2011
      • 214

      #17
      practiced today and put a restictor in and does not get over 185. Just so the ones know what i done that are having the same problem. Thought bout straping my crew cheif to the hood with the hose but that was to much work.

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      • Egoracing
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 4852

        #18
        Originally posted by bluemod View Post
        practiced today and put a restictor in and does not get over 185. Just so the ones know what i done that are having the same problem. Thought bout straping my crew cheif to the hood with the hose but that was to much work.
        When you get dirt in the radiator it is probably going to over heat again, the restrictors are a crutch for an improper cooling system.

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        • jedclampit
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2008
          • 613

          #19
          Two blade props are for airplanes!

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          • bluemod
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2011
            • 214

            #20
            ok thanks i will start looking more into it and see if i can fix whats wrong instead of a restrictor

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            • Egoracing
              Senior Member
              • May 2007
              • 4852

              #21
              Check Stewarts site, there is some great information on there in the Tech tips and frequently asked questions. We tried everything and spent alot of money to do it and then got in thouch with them and never had another issue and got rid of a bunch of the parts. Now we run a single pass radiator, Stewart pump, good hoses, 1:1 pulleys, and a shroud. The thing runs perfect. One thing that helped alot was this part; RACE applications require a maximum water pump speed of 7000 RPM. For STREET applications, the water pump speed must at least match crankshaft RPM, to a maximum recommended 25% faster than crankshaft speed.
              If you are not running a "race" built pump they will cavitate and not pump water, this is where a restrictor can crutch the system into working by kee[ing pressure on the pump. It is best to use a good pump and flow as much water as you can with a racing T-stat if needed to cool the engine and not allow hot spots to build up.

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              • fieldfiller02
                Junior Member
                • Mar 2013
                • 4

                #22
                Originally posted by Egoracing View Post
                If you are not running a "race" built pump they will cavitate and not pump water, this is where a restrictor can crutch the system into working by kee[ing pressure on the pump
                This is a great explanation, but I was thinking about it and I'm not sure that it's true. Isn't the thermostat/restrictor on the inlet side of the pump? In that case, the added restriction would lower the head pressure on the pump and make cavitation MORE likely. It very well may be a pump head pressure problem, and that makes a lot of sense, but I'm not sure about cavitation. Perhaps the increased head pressure reduces the pump efficiency enough that you really notice it. Especially with a stock pump designed to operate at a lower pressure. I'm not trying to argue here, I'm just trying to increase my understanding of this. That being said, flowing more water would definitely move more heat. However, adding a restrictor shouldn't really change the flow rate all that much, unless it affects the pump efficiency, which I think may be the case. Sorry, I'm an engineer, so I tend to over-think EVERYTHING, and heat transfer is something that really interests me.

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                • usafracer
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 554

                  #23
                  Originally posted by fieldfiller02 View Post
                  This is a great explanation, but I was thinking about it and I'm not sure that it's true. Isn't the thermostat/restrictor on the inlet side of the pump? In that case, the added restriction would lower the head pressure on the pump and make cavitation MORE likely. It very well may be a pump head pressure problem, and that makes a lot of sense, but I'm not sure about cavitation. Perhaps the increased head pressure reduces the pump efficiency enough that you really notice it. Especially with a stock pump designed to operate at a lower pressure. I'm not trying to argue here, I'm just trying to increase my understanding of this. That being said, flowing more water would definitely move more heat. However, adding a restrictor shouldn't really change the flow rate all that much, unless it affects the pump efficiency, which I think may be the case. Sorry, I'm an engineer, so I tend to over-think EVERYTHING, and heat transfer is something that really interests me.
                  The thermostat is on the outlet side.
                  My sarcasm is a pre-emptive strike to your stupidity!!

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                  • bluemod
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2011
                    • 214

                    #24
                    ok so i went back and checked everything out and took restictor out. Put a new belt on tighted it up as much as possible and didnt get over 180 last night/

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                    • fieldfiller02
                      Junior Member
                      • Mar 2013
                      • 4

                      #25
                      Originally posted by usafracer View Post
                      The thermostat is on the outlet side.
                      Thanks for the correction. I always thought that was inlet. That may make sense, then, with an impeller-type pump.

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